Kangaroo Island Walk Nov 2007

Sam and Bel, Remarkable Rocks

Time for another retro post. Melbourne Cup weekend is always good for a few days away, although its best for me to get out of the state with my aversion to crowds. 2007 found me thinking of Kangaroo Island, I'd just got myself the 5th edition of Lonely Planets, Walking in Australia, and they had notes for a walk down the west coast of Flinders Chase National Park. Sounded easy enough, walk south along the cliffs on day one, head back north the next day along a closed fire track, how hard could it be?

Seal Bay, I wonder why they named it that?

So Thursday after work Sam, Bel, and I(yeah, I'd managed to rope in a couple of victims companions) found ourselves on the road heading for Strathalbyn in South Australia where we had a room booked. After a leisurely 700 kilometre drive we checked into the motel at 2 am in the morning, luckily for the girls the time flew due to my exemplary taste in music, a mix of metal and country, I really love a road trip!

Morning saw three weary hikers driving the last 120 kilometres to get on the early ferry over to the island, after re mortgaging my house to pay for the ticket over, we were soon on our way across the Backstairs Passage to KI. Bel in particular being happy that it was only a short journey, as she was going a fetching shade of green. Arriving on the island we did a bit of sight seeing, heading over to Seal Bay, to check out the wildlife, then heading down to Remarkable Rocks to check out the...... rocks.

Can I take one home.

Remarkable Rocks

Cape Borda Lighthouse.

After a long day we headed up to Cape Borda where we were staying at the lighthouse for the night, the care-taker being kind enough to show us through the small lighthouse. After watching the sun set and having dinner we headed off to bed, tomorrow we had a fair walk to do.

Home for the night.

The next day dawned fine and clear which was good news as today would be all about the views. Before 8am we were leaving the car at the Ravine des Casoars car park and, with the rangers words to leave early ringing in my ears, we were on our way. Initially we followed a creek down towards a small beach, at one stage crossing a small bridge that was submerged. Once at the little beach we regrouped and put our boots back on, from here on it would be rough.

Everyone still fresh as we follow the creek through the Ravine des Casoars.

The bridge was a little on the damp side.

Making our way to the beach

The first objective was to climb up to the top of the cliffs, from the beach we picked a less steep approach and we were soon on top taking in the view of the cove and the creek below us. There is no track but the vegetation was generally quite thin, the occasional band of Mallee tree the only obstacle to negotiate. The real issue though was the fractured limestone that we were walking on, it was rough as guts and I knew it would slow us down.

First drink stop, we're on top of the cliffs.

Looking back into the Ravine des Casoars

Looking to the south I could see we would be in for a long day, the coastal cliffs going as far as the eye could see. Keeping as close to the cliffs as safely practicable was the general idea, the views of the turquoise water far below took some of the edge off the pain in our feet. Occasional animal pads helped us progress through the thicker bands of scrub, and with plenty of stops we slowly inched our way down the coast, with every turn giving a beautiful new panorama.

Plenty of breaks today

Pushing through the scrub.

By mid afternoon we had swung to the south west  and we were now travelling through the odd grove of Casuarina's which made a bit of a change from the Mallee. Down below a fishing boat bobbed on the ocean, I'm sure the girls were weighing up the chance of attracting their attention and hitching a ride down the coast, the hundred metre cliffs would have probably not provided an obstacle as I think by that stage their feet were that sore they may have just jumped!

This is where the coast swings to the south west.

Looking back from where we came from.

Late afternoon bought a slight change of vegetation, some Casuarinas.

The good news was as the cliffs turned back towards the south the worst of the fractured limestone was over, late afternoon found us walking through a field of limestone stalagmites, looking like a small petrified forest. It was after 7 pm when we rounded Vennachar Point and West Bay came into view, another hour later found us wearily climbing up the steps to the small camp ground. Twelve hours after starting we could relax, needless to say we didn't spend the night chatting around the camp fire, a quick dinner and we all retired to the comforts of our sleeping bags.

West Bay in the late afternoon sun.

The final climb to the camp site, it had been a long day.

After yesterdays 19 kilometres, today we only had a 16 kilometre jaunt to get us back to the car. Overcast weather greeted us in the morning, but as we were walking up an inland fire track all day, it didn't really matter. Leaving camp early we headed out the access road for a couple of kilometres before finding a closed track heading off to the north, this was our track. The morning consisted of walking along the undulating track through the Mallee scrub, watching the clouds and wondering if it would rain on us. The track made for fast walking and we were soon dropping down to cross the Ravine des Casoars again, a quick break at the creek and we making the last climb back to the car park in increasing rain.

Easy walking along the fire track, day two.

I don't know if there's a better sound than when the motor fires in the car after you have finished a big walk, it's such a relaxing feeling to see the scenery flash by as you sink into the soft seat, without having to carry everything on your back. Within about three minutes both the girls were asleep as we headed off for the afternoon ferry back to the mainland. That night found us back at the motel at Strathalbyn, relaxing in a soft bed after our celebratory meal.

Sam and Bel, regrouping before the final climb out of the Ravine des Casoars.

Sam on the final climb, just as the rain started.

All that was left now was the final 700 kilometre trip back home, and with us serenaded by a combination of Metallica and Johnny Cash the trip went quickly, at least I thought so:)

The Dirt
Well we all survived, I'm still married and Bel still talks to me as well, so all up I'd call that a successful trip. The walk shouldn't be under estimated, the fractured limestone along the cliffs really slowed us down. When applying for a permit the ranger will probably advise you to leave early and carry plenty of water, its good advice. Having said all that the first day is spectacular, the unfolding views take your mind off your feet, the second day has its own charm, but probably suffers in comparison to day one. A couple of other things to note, Kangaroo Island is big, it takes two or three hours to drive from one end to the other, and also the car ferry over is bloody expensive, best to spend as long as possible over there as it's a gem when you get there.
For the walk I used the notes out of Lonely Planets Walking in Australia 5th edition, I also used Landsmap's 1:50000 Borda and Vennachar. I also carried a PLB, it would be easy to do some damage to yourself along the cliff tops.

Way to cute!