Thursday, October 29, 2020

Windermere Hut to Pelion Hut, Overland Track - April 2010

The view from Mt Oakleigh this afternoon. 

I woke early this morning, yes, one of the joys of everybody sleeping in the one room in a hut. After a quick breakfast I said my goodbyes and was on my way. The aim for today was to get to Pelion Hut, drop my pack and then make the climb Mt Oakleigh. This little side trip would make it a solid days walking and add an extra 10 kilometres and 500m climbing to the day. The mist was down again this morning and the first 2 hours walking provided only tantalising glimpses through the fog. Unfortunately the mist didn't clear until after I'd passed by the Forth River Lookout, so there would be no views today. 


The early morning sun was lighting up Barn Bluff as I left Windermere Hut this morning.

Early morning on the Overland Track.

I'm heading into the mist.




There is a lot of duck boarding over Button Grass plains on this section and it always makes for quick walking. When the sun started poking through the gloom it was lighting up the Button Grass in a golden glow, the wet grass glistening in the light. At the same time the Snow Gums were appearing like ghost apparitions in the mist, yes I couldn't think of many places I'd rather be.

Button Grass
The duck boards make for fairly quick walking.
Snow Gums in the mist.



After the quick walk across Pine Forest Moor it was time to drop down to Frog Flats where the Overland Track crosses the River Forth, this is the lowest section of the Overland Track. The track drops slightly over 200 metres, however it is very well graded. The bridge over the River Forth provides another traditional place to stop and have a drink, grab something to eat and prepare for the 160 metre climb up to the Pelion Plains. An hour after leaving Frog Flats I was at Pelion Hut and preparing for the next part of the days adventure.
Eventually I dropped out of the mist.

The Overland Track crosses the River Forth at Frog Flats. I'm thinking that this is the lowest point along the Overland Track.



While I was having a quick lunch at Pelion Hut a couple of friends from last night, Julie and Jess turned up and it was soon decided that they would climb Mt Oakleigh with me this afternoon. So after lunch we grabbed our day packs and set off to cross the Pelion Plains. After crossing Douglas Creek on a suspension bridge we took a left fork and headed across the Button Grass towards a slight saddle in the crest of Mt Oakleigh. The walk across the plains was damp (very damp!) so we took a bit of a meandering route to try and not get too wet, after jumping a deep creek and shimmying across a branch over another deep creek we reached the bottom of the climb. The climb up Mt Oakleigh is one of the more interesting on the Overland Track in my opinion. You have to pass through a wide range of environments, from Button Grass, to Eucalypt, to Myrtle, to Pandanis and Snow Gums before finally alpine grass. After reaching the summit ridge it was an easy walk to the west to some rocky pinnacles overlooking the Forth Gorge. On a good day like today the view from up here was absolutely breathtaking, standing on a pinnacle 100's of metres above the valley floor with the cloud swirling at my feet is another experience that has stayed in my memory over the years.


There is a good suspension bridge over Douglas Creek on the Arm River Track.




Heading across the rather damp Pelion Plains towards Mt Oakleigh.

The summit of Mt Oakleigh is a fairly flat plateau.


Mt Oakleigh



After a bit of a rest on the summit and numerous photos we started to make our way back down. Our walk back down was reasonably uneventful until Jess managed to fall waist deep in one of the creeks on Pelion Plains. Reaching Douglas Creek I figured that after 3 days it was time for a decent wash so I stripped off and jumped in... well it wasn't one of those lingering tropical waterfall plunge pool types of swims, I'm thinking I was in and out within thirty seconds! Pulling on my clothes it wasn't long and we were back in the hut feeling very fresh and clean. Pelion Hut is large hut, it sleeps about 60 people so I had no problem grabbing my own room this afternoon. I'm thinking that the hut is so big because it not only services walkers on the Overland Track but it is also at the end of the Arm River Track (a short cut into the middle reaches of the Overland Track) After cooking dinner the rest of the night was spent in convivial chat with with the other hut visitors before I settled into my sleeping bag for another early night.

I'm thinking that the true high point on Mt Oakleigh is that low ridge in the distance.


Mt Oakleigh

That's Pelion East on the left and Mt Ossa on the right.

Mt Ossa from Mt Oakleigh... tomorrows adventure!


The Dirt.
I walked 24 kilometres and climbed 720 metres on what I'd call a hard days walking. Over the three days of my Overland Track adventure I'd walked 49 kilometres and climbed 1730 metres. Pelion Hut is the only option today if you want to sleep under a roof (Old Pelion Hut is for emergencies only). Some people camp down at Frog Flats although I've never stopped there. I'm thinking that there was some scrambling on the climb up to Mt Oakleigh, there was also some pretty wet country as I made my way across Pelion Plains to the base of Mt Oakleigh. Water was generally fairly easy to find again today. Once again I was using the House of Chapmans notes and maps out of their Cradle Mountain Lake St Clair & Walls of Jerusalem National Parks book.

Relevant Posts.


Dropping back down to Pelion Plains. Pelion Hut is on the tree line towards the left of the photo.

Lake Ayr

Crossing Douglas Creek on my way back to Pelion Hut I decided to suck it up and have a quick swim. 


Pelion Plains

Sunday, October 25, 2020

Scott Kilvert Hut to Windermere Hut, Overland Track - April 2010

The clouds lifted like a curtain while I was on the summit of Barn Bluff to reveal Lake Will, 500 metres below me.

I had a quiet night listening to the nocturnal creatures scurrying in and around the hut. Morning dawned a little misty although I was hoping that it would start to lift. To get the heart started this morning I had a steepish climb up onto Cradle Cirque, the track up here is probably one of the rougher sections of track around the Cradle Mountain area I'm thinking. Reaching Cradle Cirque I joined the Overland Track and headed off towards the Barn Bluff turn off. 


I've just arrived onto Cradle Cirque and joined the Overland Track.

Once at the turn off I had to decide whether to climb Barn Bluff or not as the mist was still hanging around, however once again I decided to roll the dice and hoped that it may burn off during the climb. This time I got lucky, I was about 100 metres up the 400 metre climb when I heard voices getting closer and then out of the mist two girls appeared, Jess and Julie had been to the top and informed me that the summit was indeed above the cloud. I moved reasonably fast up the cairned track as I'd stashed my pack back at the Waterfall Valley Track junction so it wasn't long before I came out above the cloud. As I climbed above the cloud the view was superb, I hurried through the cliff line now convinced that my good luck would run out and the cloud would come in again. The view from the top of Barn Bluff included Cradle Mountain, Mt Ossa, and Mt Pelion West, all seemingly floating on a sea of cloud. Underneath me to the south Lake Will was slowly revealing itself as the cloud slowly lifted.

The climb up Barn Bluff is a little scrambly in spots.

From the summit of Barn Bluff I was above the clouds this morning.

Lake Will

Cradle Mountain from Barn Bluff.


Mt Ossa and Mt Pelion West from Barn Bluff.





I stayed up on the summit of Barn Bluff for around an hour this morning trying to burn the view into my memory... eventually all good things come to an end though and I had to leave the summit. Climbing down through the cliff lines I retrieved my pack and then made my way to Waterfall Valley for a late lunch. Lunch was enjoyed sitting on the helipad at the Waterfall Valley Hut, talking to the volunteer hut wardens whom I had met on Cradle Cirque in the mist earlier in the day. As I was now on the Overland Track I assumed I would be sharing the huts with plenty of other walkers and they confirmed that there would be around 10 people at Windermere Hut that night.


Lake Will

This was one of those moments that has stayed with me.

Heading back along the Barn Bluff summit ridge.

Fury Gorge from Barn Bluff.

Barn Bluff

Barn Bluff

There are plenty of cairns marking the route off Barn Bluff.

The view back towards Cradle Mountain as I descended Barn Bluff.








The afternoon was spent ambling across to Lake Windermere and Windermere Hut with a now almost traditional stop at Lake Holmes for a drink and a bite to eat. The walk is almost flat and is an easy 2-3 hours, a lot of it on duck boards. When Lake Windermere came into view, with its little island and small beach, I figured that it was worth a stop although a swim was out of the question this afternoon. Leaving the small rocky beach on Lake Windermere I shuffled away from the lake up into the snow gums soon arriving at Windermere Hut.


Waterfall Valley


Waterfall Valley - as the name suggests if you don't mind exploring off piste you can find a lot of waterfalls down there.

Stopping for smoko at the Lake Will turn off.

Lake Holmes

Lake Holmes





After I claimed a bunk in the bunk room, I boiled up some water and had a hot chocolate and settled in to watch my fellow walkers arrive. This was the first night of the walk (and indeed my preceding walk along the Penguin Cradle Trail) that I had other walkers for company. Windermere Hut sleeps about 24 people so there was plenty of room for everybody tonight. I always carry a book on these long walks however I normally find that sharing a hut is so sociable that I rarely get any time to read, and indeed that was the case tonight as I spent hours curing the ills of the world with Sirus (the track worker that I'd met yesterday over at Scott Kilvert).


Lake Will is glinting in the afternoon sun. It's an exposed section of the Overland Track between Waterfall Valley and Lake Windermere.

Lake Windermere has just come into view.

Lake Windermere




The Dirt.
I walked around 18 kilometres and climbed around 750 metres on what I'd call a medium grade days walking. Over the two days of my Overland Track adventure so far I've walked around 25 kilometres and climbed 1010 metres. Camping today was available at Waterfall Valley Hut and I believe there is a site out at Lake Will, although check on the legality of that one maybe. Once off Cradle Cirque water is pretty easy to find. The side trip I did out to Barn Bluff is a little harder than the Overland Track sections of this walk and it requires some easy scrambling. I was using the House of Chapmans notes and maps out of their Cradle Mountain Lake St Clair & Walls of Jerusalem National Parks book.

Relevant Posts.


Lake Windermere - it was a little too cold for a swim this afternoon.

Windermere Hut is up in the trees a little distance from the lake.

Thursday, October 22, 2020

Lake Dove to Scott Kilvert Hut, Overland Track - April 2010

Artists Pool




Technically the Overland Track starts at Ronny Creek, however I'm not really one for technicalities so I  decided to start my walk at Dove Lake. Instead of heading for Waterfall Valley on the first night I was going over to Scott Kilvert Hut for the night. This trip was really an extension of my Penguin Cradle Trail walk on which I'd copped a fair bit of rain, the weather this morning was looking a little more promising though and by the time I got off the shuttle bus at Dove Lake I could see a few patches of blue sky above me.
Conditions this morning were looking somewhat promising.


Leaving the Dove Lake Carpark I crossed Dove River and headed around to the left on the Dove Lake Circuit Walk for a few minutes, just after passing Glacier Rock I left the lakeside track and started ascending towards Hansons Peak. The tracks around Lake Dove are all maintained to a very high standard as it's a very popular tourist area so the walking was pretty good. It's wasn't exactly easy though (especially when lugging around all my gear for the best part of the next week!), with the climb to Hansons Peak featuring a haul up a fixed chain. Still, once I'd arrived on the summit of Hansons Peak this morning that was pretty well the end of the the climbing for the day.


The view back down towards the Lake Dove carpark from Hansons Peak.

The cloud was starting to lift off Cradle Mountain.

The author on Hansons Peak.





Hansons Peak offers 360˚ views taking in Dove Lake, Cradle Mountain, Lake Wilks, Little Horn, Twisted Lakes, and Lake Hanson so needless to say if the weather is on your side then it's a great place to stop and get your breath back for awhile. Leaving the summit the track dropped through some fairly rocky country down towards a tiny emergency shelter below Little Horn. With a towering backdrop of rocky bluffs and Pencil Pines and decent sized tarn in the foreground this little hut punches above its weight in the scenery stakes I think. 


Twisted Lakes

Approaching the emergency hut below Little Horn.


The small emergency hut below Little Horn is in a particularly pretty spot.





Leaving the emergency hut I picked up the Lake Rodway Track and started my gentle descent down to Scott Kilvert Hut. The Lake Dove area can be pretty busy with day walkers although the eastern side of Dove Lake is generally a lot quieter than the western side, and indeed since leaving the carpark this morning I hadn't bumped into another walker. Now that I was dropping down towards Scott Kilvert Hut I was thinking that it was fairly unlikely that I'd see any day walkers as I was getting to the extreme end of the distance that most day walkers will tackle. The track down here was a little rougher as I dropped below the cliffs of Little Horn and then passed by the achingly beautiful Artists Pool and the brooding Flyns Tarn.

Heading down to Lake Rodway I was leaving the main daywalk area around Lake Dove.

The Lake Rodway track is pretty good...

... although it is a little rougher than the Overland Track.
Little Horn
Artists Pool

Flynns Tarn
Flynns Tarn





Soon enough the large Lake Roadway came into view and 10 minutes later I arrived at the empty Scott Kilvert Hut. After enjoying my lunch (yes, it was a short day) I unpacked my mat and sleeping bag in the hut loft and was contemplating my afternoon when I heard someone approaching the hut, bugger I thought to myself thinking that I'd be sharing with some other walkers tonight. It turned out that the person I'd heard was a track worker called Sirus who had walked over from Waterfall Valley to make sure everything was OK at the hut and was heading back to Waterfall Valley Hut that afternoon, so I was still a chance to be enjoying my own company tonight.

Lake Rodway has just come into view... my days walk was almost over!

Lake Rodway

Lake Rodway

Scott Kilvert Hut... my nights accommodation. 

Scott Kilvert Hut.

I suppose it would be possible to take a dip in Lake Rodway... once global warming really kicks in!



After chatting to Sirus for an hour or so I left him to his chores and went exploring around Lake Rodway. The weather was now pretty looking very good so I spent the rest of the day enjoying the sun and soaking in the views, the country around here being particularly pretty.  With the sun going down behind Cradle Mountain the temperature quickly dropped so I figured that it was time to make a tactical retreat back to the hut. It turned out that I did indeed have the hut to myself so I spread my gear out a bit and cooked up dinner while reading tomorrows notes. With dinner finished and the sun well and truly set it was time to climb into the loft and settle in for an early night of reading in my sleeping bag.


I spent the afternoon exploring around the hut.
Lake Rodway
The back wall of Cradle Mountain.

Cradle Mountain blocks out the sun fairly early near Scott Kilvert Hut.



Lake Rodway

Little Horn


Flynns Tarn and Little Horn.




The Dirt.
I walked around 7 kilometres and climbed around 260 metres on today's easy walk. I caught the shuttle bus from Cradle Valley to Dove Lake Carpark this morning which made things even easier. Water wasn't a problem today although I'd treat it if grabbing it from one of the lakes. The first legal option to camp is at Scott Kilvert Hut. While I've called this an easy walk the track is a little rocky and steep in a few spots and the climb of Hansons Peak generally means hauling up a fixed chain. I was using the House of Chapmans notes and maps out of their Cradle Mountain Lake St Clair & Walls of Jerusalem National Parks book. 

Relevant Posts.


Little Horn


Flynns Tarn


Mt Emmett

Mt Emmett

Watching the sun go down from the helipad... the temperature was dropping quicker than the sun I think!

Cradle Mountain

Those old polartec fleece tops were on the heavy side... but gee they were warm and comfortable.

One last shot of Little Horn.

I had the hut to myself so room wasn't an issue.


Pelion Hut to Mt Ossa return, Overland Track - April 2010

Mt Oakleigh from the Pelion Hut heli pad. I think the mountain just visible in the mist in the distance is Cradle Mountain... ... the flat t...