Thorsborne Trail, Hinchinbrook Island National Park - May 1999

That's Sam catching some rays on top of Zoe Falls.

In 1999 we took some time off for a road trip up the east coast of Australia, the ultimate aim was to do the Thorsborne Trail on Hinchinbrook Island in North Queensland. Along the way I did a couple of other walks which I may post sometime, Mt Bartle Frere from west to east and also the Forest and Lakes walk on Fraser Island (this was before the Fraser Island Great walk was a twinkle in some bureaucrats eye!). The main aim was the Thorsborne Trail however and that's how we found ourselves dining at a small restaurant called "Muddies" in Cardwell, enjoying a pre walk feast.

Heading over from Cardwell.

Day 1  7.5 kilometres
You may have noticed that the kilometre total for the day is a bit on the low side, with Hinchinbrook being deep within Australia's tropical north we tended to spend more time swimming than walking most days. Before we could actually start walking (swimming) we had to get to the trail head, and on the Thorsborne Trail that involves a boat ride from Cardwell Marina. So we got of to a relaxing start with a beautiful cruise over to the island, making a brief stop at the resort on the very northern tip of the island on the way.

Our boat heading up through the mangroves, perfect saltie country.

The boat deposited us a short walk from Ramsay Bay and within a couple of minutes we had cleared the day trippers that had come off the boat and were on our own. I managed to keep my clothes on until we got to the second beach of the walk, Blacksand Beach, with two kilometres of walking under our feet I figured it was time enough for a swim.

Looking back to Ramsay Bay from Nina Peak.

A quick swim later and it was time to climb a hill, we climbed up to the saddle between Blacksand Beach and Nina Bay and while Sam continued on down to Nina Bay for a swim, I scrambled up Nina Peak. At 312 metres its hardly The Andes but it did provide a great view back down to the coast. Towering above me was Mt Bowen which would prove irresistible to me a few years later.

Looking down on Nina Bay from Nina Peak.

I was quickly re united with Sam at Nina Bay, a perfect opportunity for another swim. From there we rock hoped across Bolder Bay and then headed inland for a little while, eventually popping out onto Little Ramsay Bay. We had what would turn out to be a serendipitous meeting with a young bloke with a big camera, much later I would find out his full name, Steven Nowakowski, on my Mt Bowen mission a few years later I bumped into a sea kayaker at Sunken Reef Bay and after chatting for awhile I realised that I was talking to his girlfriend. She told me he was releasing a coffee table book on Hinchinbrook Island, sure enough a year or two later it was in the stores.

Looking towards Banksia Bay from our camp at Little Ramsay Bay.

Warrawilla Lagoon with The Thumb towering above, Mt Bowen is just out of shot on the left and the imaginatively named North Saddle is the low point in the middle, taken from our camp at Little Ramsay Bay.

Mt Bowen in the late afternoon from Little Ramsay Bay.

We made our camp on the edge of the lagoon formed by Warrawilla Creek, with water views it was a perfect spot. We were expecting to be visited during the night by the native white tail rats that the island is infamous for and indeed we were, all our food was in the rat proof boxes provided so there was no real drama. The highlight of the night would be when we were visited by a Bandicoot, something I've never experienced again.

Sunset, Little Ramsay Bay.

A Bandicoot visited our camp at Little Ramsay Bay.

Day 2  8.5 kilometres
After packing camp in the morning we walked the length of Little Ramsay Bay, then, after crossing the thigh deep creek at the southern end of the bay we rock hoped over a small headland. Rounding the small headland we immediately dropped to another beautiful little beach, a perfect spot to drop the packs under the Casuarinas and indulge in another swim.

Crossing the rocky headland after Little Ramsay Bay, that's Nina Peak behind.

Another beach, another swim, I don't think this one has a name.

Magic Saddle, Zoe Bay in the distance, the route takes a big arc to the right around the swamp.

According to the notes we now head a fairly long section away from the coast, with the added highlight a crossing of North Zoe Creek where Saltwater Crocodiles had been sighted. So not really knowing what to make of it we crossed Magic Saddle and started to make our way down to the extensive swamp behind Zoe Bay. It turns out that there wasn't much to be concerned about, we had a beautiful walk through a stunning rainforest, at one stage noticing a large python just off the track who didn't seem overly concerned about us. The crux of this section wasn't really North Zoe Creek which we were able to cross barely getting our feet wet, but a fairly lengthy section in the swamp were the water was above Sam's knees.

The route skirts around the back of the swamp behind Zoe Bay.

Although sometimes the track gets a little to close to the swamp!

Crossing North Zoe Creek, we were warned not to linger due to the presence of Saltwater Crocodiles.

I don't think he was to worried about us!

After a few hours we popped out onto the wide expanse of Zoe Bay, heading straight to the camping area we were on a mission to get the tent up and then head to Zoe Falls for a swim. There's no swimming in Zoe Bay due to the salties, but it hardly matters as 15 minutes from the camp is one of the best swimming spots on the island, Zoe Falls is what you dream that a tropical island is like, crystal clear water, plenty of fish, lots of flat rocks to lie on, and a rope swing so that you can indulge in your very own Tarzan fantasy!

Zoe Falls.

Zoe Falls, paradise.

The sun setting behind Mt Bowen, from our camp at Zoe Bay.

Day 3  5.6 kilometres
First up today we had to climb to the top of Zoe Falls, there was a rope at the steepest section which made it a bit easier. Once on top we had our choice of numerous little infinity pools to soak in whilst gazing out over Zoe Bay to the Coral Sea. Once again we lingered, it didn't really matter though as we didn't have far to go.

Sunrise, Zoe Bay.

South Zoe Creek near the campsite at Zoe Bay.

Sam, using a fixed rope to climb up Zoe Falls.

Eventually leaving the top of the falls we followed South Zoe Creek upstream, this was the roughest walking of the track, at some stages we were actually walking in the creek. Crossing the highest point on the track we suddenly got views down the coast, the Lucinda Jetty penetrating kilometres out to sea. After rock hoping over Diamantina Creek on some incredibly slippery black rocks, we sidled down some open slopes before once again entering the rainforest at the Mulligan Falls campsite.

Our beautiful infinity pool at the top of Zoe Falls.

Zoe Bay and the Coral Sea from the top of Zoe Falls.

Mulligan Falls camp is situated about two minutes walk from the falls that it is named after, once again a more idyllic spot is hard to imagine. If anyone reading this actually visits Mulligan Falls one day make sure you check out the plunge pool at the end of the day, the sun heats the black rock slabs that Diamantina Creek flows over so that by the end of the day the temperature of the water cascading into the plunge pool has risen quite a few degrees, its not a hot spa, but its noticeable.

Jungle Perch at Mulligan Falls.

Day 4  6 kilometres
We had an appointment with our pick up boat at 11 am so we didn't linger today. First up we had another thirty minutes through the rainforest before we broke out on the extensive Mulligan Bay, the sand stretching south as far as we could see. The views to the north being of the green tree clad mountains towering into the clouds.

On day 4 we had about thirty minutes of rainforest walking.

The only obstacle of note to negotiate today was Mulligan Creek which has to be crossed near low tide. Mulligan Creek flows out of a large swampy area that to me looks like a perfect spot for a saltie to live, we didn't see any salties but did see a few feral pigs around the creek, where's the salties when you need them, hey! Anyway we barely got wet crossing the creek and we were soon at George Point ready for our pick up, right on time the little tinny motored into view and we were soon on our way to the big smoke of Lucinda.

Crossing Mulligan Creek at low tide, Mulligan Bay.

The Dirt.
What a top walk (so good I've been back twice more over the years). We used the notes from an early edition of Lonely Planets Bushwalking Australia. If going there now John Chapman's Bushwalking Australia covers the walk. You need to arrange for a permit and they only let 40 punters onto the island at any time. You also need to arrange boat transfers from Cardwell in the north, and Lucinda in the south. Hinchinbrook Island takes a bit of effort but its paradise when you get there.