Friday, August 15, 2014

Sydney to Perth on The Indian Pacific - Dec 2009

I've written up all sorts of travels on the blog so far, but this will be the first train journey that I've written about. Sam and I were heading over to WA to walk the Cape to Cape track and figured that since we'd driven over numerous times we would try something different on this trip. That's how we came to load her car onto the train in Sydney and cross the country in the comfort of the Indian Pacific.
Kicking back as we leave the suburbs of Sydney, I reckon I've got enough newspapers.
After checking the car in we had a couple of hours before the train left Central Station, so after having a late breakfast we headed into the centre of Sydney to load up on books and newspapers. Suitably provisioned for three days of train travel we headed back and checked into our gold class cabin. Gold class meant that we had two bunks that were folded up during the day to make a comfortable three seater lounge. The cabin was small but liveable, our en-suite featured a fold up toilet and a shower.
Sam looks really impressed with our en-suite.
Leaving Central the train snakes its way through the never ending western suburbs of Sydney before climbing into the Blue Mountains, for the initial section there was two locomotives to get us over the mountains. The best I can liken the experience to is cruising, we just sat back and watched the world un-fold outside the windows. I didn't take long for the stress to melt away and we settled into the journey, listening to some music, reading, and trying to take dodgy photos out the window. After dropping down the western side of the Blue Mountains in the late afternoon we decided to check out a bit more of the train, first up we went to the lounge where there was a meet and greet with the other passengers, not really something I'm that keen on but they were serving free alcohol (well one drink) so I made sure that Sam asked for a beer knowing that she wouldn't drink the champagne, so I ended up with two beers. Most of the passengers were on the vintage side but there were two or three couples our age or younger, we ended up chatting with a brother and sister from America over for a holiday who were in their early twenties. After the lounge it was time for dinner in the dining car, a beautiful experience with the sun going down painting the plains in a golden light. Three courses later we retired to our cabin to find that the bunks had been turned down, it was with some childish excitement that I climbed into my bunk, the clickety-clack of the rails and the swaying of the train making sleep come easily.
The front of the train disappearing around the corner as we tracked into the Blue Mountains beside the Great Western Highway.
A dodgy photo of the Blue Mountains through the window.
We left the window blind up overnight which provided views out to the night sky, the only issue being when the train stopped at large towns we could end up with a street light shining in the window. Having the blind up however meant that we were able to catch sunrise across the dry western plains of New South Wales from our bunks, watching the land change colour as the sun crept higher. Before long we pulled into Broken Hill our first opportunity to leave the train since Sydney, being very early in the morning not much was open but it was a good chance to wonder around and stretch the legs.
Broken Hill train station beside the big pile of mine tailings.
The Gold Kangaroo dining carriage.
Back on the train it was straight to breakfast, and then as the train drew closer to Adelaide, lunch. Arriving in Adelaide we had a few hours to check out the city, Sam and I caught a taxi into town and checked out some more book shops before I went for a coffee and Sam went shopping. Heading back to the train in the late afternoon we now found that we would be travelling backwards for the rest of the trip, obviously the locomotive had changed ends. Dinner that night was taken as the train travelled through the southern Flinders Ranges on the way to Port Augusta, the sun once again turning the grassy hills a golden colour. The Indian Pacific shares this stretch of track with the Ghan and the quality of the rails had improved greatly, there was barely any rocking on the rails at all, apparently the night before had been too rough for some people although I thought it was sweet.


Meeting the locals in Adelaide.


Next day we awoke to the sun coming up over the Nullarbor, we had travelled here before although last time was on the service track beside the railway here's the link if your interested. After our usual three course breakfast we pulled into the tiny settlement of Cook, this provided another opportunity to get out and stretch the legs. Today was a day for subtle changes out the window, from a dead flat plain with not a tree in site the country slowly changed as we inched our way west, by early evening as we neared Kalgoorlie we were travelling through lightly wooded undulating hills. The other highlight of the day was travelling through a dust storm and then a bit later a rain storm. Pulling into Kalgoorlie after dinner we joined the punters from the red kangaroo seats and headed into town, although they were heading for a pub to check out the 'skimpies' whilst we headed to a cafe. 
Stopping to re fuel at Cook in the middle of the Nullarbor.
Part of a goods train heading east, they double stack the containers sometimes.
We've travelled this road out to the Eyre Highway before.
Rawlinna, we've been here too.
The train didn't leave the station until around 11 pm so we dropped off to sleep on a still train, during the night the train also pulled up for a couple of hours at a small siding in the middle of nowhere. Next time I awoke we were moving through the hills on the outskirts of Perth, it was time for our last breakfast on board whilst we travelled through the outer suburbs. All to soon for me the journey was over and we were collecting our car, this was a top experience and I can't wait to try another train journey.
Travelling into a dust storm.
Sam's checking out the view on the other side of the train.
Now we've got a rain storm.
The Dirt.
We travelled on the Indian Pacific which is operated by Great Southern Rail. The cabin we had was Gold Kangaroo and had the necessary bunks and en-suite, its an expensive exercise but something I don't regret spending the money on. We also took Sam's car over with us which added to the cost a bit. I was a bit concerned that we may be bored but the days passed too quick, we always seemed to be heading to the dining car for another meal. The staff on board work incredibly hard and are on the go from first thing in the morning to well after we'd gone to bed, they were all polite and patient. The food on board in the restaurant was top notch, each meal was three courses and generally featured some local produce. All in all a great experience.

Just arrived in Perth after three nights on board.
Well the car made it.

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