The Coast Track, Royal National Park - August 1999

I'm writing this post up on Australia Day and seeing that our PM is trying to take us back to the 1950's with his Australia Day Knighthoods I figured that I'd take us back to the last century as well. While it may not be the Menzie's era that our PM yearns for, 1999 was a good year for us. This was our first walk on The Coast Track in Royal National Park. We drove up from Melbourne overnight in the 'Troopie', and after arriving at the Bundeena end at 4:00 in the morning we jumped into the back for a few hours sleep, at 8:00am my mate Dave turned up to transport us down the coast to Otford where we shouldered our packs and set off.

Who is that fool with all the hair, oh wait....

Day 1       17 kilometres         Curracurrang
This was our first walk in Royal National Park and immediately we noticed the difference in  the flora between here and Melbourne. The most notable plant was the huge flowering the Gymea Lily, from where I stood they looked pre historic and they have become a favourite of mine. The track headed through dry forest for a while skirting around the valley that leads down to Werrong Beach, the clothing optional beach, unfortunately there was no convincing Sam that we should go down for a swim. After the Werrong Lookout the track descended to Palm Jungle, the route getting a bit indistinct as it made its way through the sub tropical Jungle.

Sam at the lookout above Werrong Beach.

After Palm Jungle the track comes out onto some open grass land on a headland above Figure Eight Pools, in those days the track wasn't to bad, now its a metre deep trench although I think there are plans to fix it up a bit. The day was cool but reasonably fine as we then made our way past the old shacks at Burning Palms, climbing and descending a few times we continued past South Era and then North Era, the currant camping area for the walk. We had a while to go back in 1999 however, first up we rock hopped around Thelma Head (now days you are encouraged to climb over the headland due to falling rocks on the coastal route), then we passed the old surf lifesaving club and kiosk at Garie Beach

Above The Figure Eight Pools.

Looking back towards Garie Beach from Curra Moor.

We then got into what I now know is the best part of the walk, The Curra Moors. The route from Garie to Wattamolla being mostly along the top of high sea cliffs through coastal heath. The views along this section are extensive and the walking fairly easy. I remember being particularly enthralled by the sight of Curracurrong Creek tumbling into the sea from the high cliffs. We pushed on in the now late afternoon light eventually arriving at sea level at Curracurrang and the official camping area, finding ourselves a flat grassy ledge just above the water level we quickly settled in for the night.

I'm not sure if this statue is still there, just after climbing up from Garie Beach.

Garie Beach.

Curra Brook.

Day 2       12 kilometres       Bundeena                  29 kilometres total.
We had a peaceful night on our own in this magic location, the only people to disturb us were a couple of rock fisherman who came past in the early hours of the morning. Sun rise lit up the small rocky cove in a golden light which I tried to do justice to with my cheap camera. After breakfast it was time to hit the track again. First stop for the day was Wattamolla and its kiosk and toilet, after grabbing a cool drink it was time to head off again.

Sunrise Curracurrang.

Notice the yellow tent, what a superb spot to spend the night.

Looking back towards Providential Head.

My old water filter.

From Wattamolla the track skirts inland for a bit before once again coming out on the cliff tops for some more superb walking. Once on the cliffs the track heads north towards the wild Little Marley and Marley Beaches, it was hard to believe that there was two wild uninhabited beaches like these probably only 20 kilometres as the crow fly's from the Sydney CBD. Climbing up around Marley Head the high rises of Sydney came into view for the first time across the heath land. Once again the Coast Track follows the cliffs making for stunning, easy walking with continual views. All good things  come to an end eventually however and after crossing over The Waterrun, with some reluctance we turned away from the coast and made our way up through the the low heathland towards the trail head in a quiet street in the back blocks of Bundeena. Arriving back at the troopie just after lunch we were soon packed up and on our way back to Melbourne.

There was a bit of weather off the coast.

The track follows the open tops on the high cliffs.

Looking south near The Waterrun.

The Dirt.
We have been back to Royal National Park quite a few times over the years doing numerous walks around the park, it's a stunning piece of Australia. We have also walked The Coast Track another couple of times, the last time I wrote up a crazy guy journal, which was in April 2012, no doubt we'll revisit the walk again sometime as its a classic. The Coast Walk over two days is easy, some people do it in a day which would be a solid walk. You can access both ends by public transport from Sydney, Otford by train and Bundeena by ferry. The official camping area is now North Era I think. There are a few creeks that flow off the escarpment that I've always taken water from although I definitely treat it.

Last break on the cliffs.

You could see the buildings in Sydney's CBD from here, although maybe not in the scanned photo.

Climbing up to Bundeena through the coastal heathland.