Well I'm back from the wilds of Peru, a trip that will no doubt inspire a few posts in the future. I had a great time trekking over there with an awesome bunch of people. One of the side benefits of travelling to Peru was that I spent a hell of a lot of time either sitting in a plane or in airport lounges, now I wouldn't normally consider that a 'benefit' however it gave me an opportunity to work on my crazy guy journals for the Milford and Routeburn Tracks and consequently I've just completed the Milford write up. So I figured that I would post a bit of a highlights package with a link to crazy guy on the blog.
 |
| Heading up Lake Te Anau towards Glade Wharf. |
The Milford was my fourth tramp on my New Zealand sojourn last year, it also marked the point in my trip where Sam came over to join me. With Sam coming over I figured that I should make it as nice as possible for her seeing that I was asking her to tramp through the wilds over Christmas and New Year, so that's how we decided to trek with Ultimate Hikes again on a Guided Walk. We had walked with them about
nine years ago and enjoyed the experience immensely, so I didn't hesitate on booking with them again. Well that's the reason I tell everybody we went on a guided trip but just between you and me I don't mind a few creature comforts myself every now and again, I'm contemplating re naming the blog 'goin' soft', anyway keep that to yourself.
 |
| If you squint you may be able to see Glade Wharf. |
3 kilometres Glade House
After a long coach trip and a short boat ride we were deposited at Glade Wharf for our first days walking on the Milford Track. The distance from Glade Wharf to Glade House is less than 2 kilometres so I've added on a little for the compulsory nature walk we went on in the afternoon, just to make the stats a bit more respectable. After the short nature walk it was time for a quick swim in the Clinton River, I'm not sure which was more painful, the sandflies as I stripped off to jump in or the freezing water when I actually got in, oh well it had to be done. At least being a guided walk I could go back to our room and have a hot shower, and then settle in for a three course meal and a cold beer, much better than my usual freeze dried and water.
 |
Glade House.
 |
Swimming in the Clinton River near Glade House.
 |
| Sunset Day 1 on the Milford. |
|
|
16 kilometres Pompolona Lodge 19 kilometres total
Our first full day on the Milford started a bit grey and overcast, however with no passes to cross today it didn't really matter. Today we followed the Clinton River up towards its head waters at the head of the Clinton River Valley. This valley has been called 'the valley of the perpendicular' due to the sheer rocky walls that crowd the valley rising over 1000 metres above. Sam and I wandered along at our own sloth like pace taking it all in, the track occasionally passing over old land slips where the vegetation hasn't had a chance to grow back yet, these spots provided great views up and down the valley.
 |
Heading off on day 2.
 |
| Clinton Forks. |
 |
The Clinton River.
 |
| The valley of the perpendicular. |
|
|
After lunch at Hirere Falls Shelter we headed off in the direction of Pompolona Lodge. I was keen to find a spot that I swam at 9 years ago with our guides. After a few exploratory side trips I eventually recognized the waterfall that I jumped off all those years ago. You would think being nine years older that I'd be nine years wiser but apparently not, I was quick to strip off and jump in, swimming over to the rock face I still managed to climb up onto the small ledge under the waterfall and jump off. I might be older but my brain still thinks I'm 18!
After my little swim we pushed on into the gathering gloom, the weather was definitely deteriorating a little and we arrived at Pompolona Lodge just as the rain set in. Our room at the lodge backed onto the forest with Mackinnon Pass in the distance, well at least it would of been if you could see it under the cloud. We slept that night with the window and curtain open enjoying the sound of the rain falling.
 |
Time for a swim.
 |
You'd reckon I'd be old enough to know better!
 |
| Looking up the Clinton Valley towards Mackinnon Pass. |
 |
| The view from our room at Pompolona Lodge, looking towards Mackinnon Pass. |
|
|
21 kilometres Quintin Lodge 40 kilometres total
Today is the crux of the Milford, its the day we walked over Mackinnon Pass. I'd like to regale you with tales of blue sky and sunshine but I can't, actually it pissed down! Now before you start sighing and saying 'that's a shame' don't. Today was awesome, the climb up to Mackinnon Pass was actually reasonably dry so we didn't sweat to death in our wet weather gear, on cresting the ridge though we were hit by the weather coming up the Arthur Valley and it only got worse for the next few hours. Making our way along the ridge to our lunch stop at Mackinnon Pass Shelter I was worried that Sam may get blown off the mountain and the weather actually got worse as we were eating lunch. Leaving the shelter after lunch we dropped into a waterlogged world, sometimes it was hard to tell if we were on the track or tramping down a cascading creek, it was a great adventure.
 |
| Quintin Lodge from Mackinnon Pass. |
 |
Sam on Mackinnon Pass.
 |
| We are heading for the valley on the left. |
|
About 2.5 hours after leaving Mackinnon Pass we arrived at Quintin Lodge, where leaving Sam in our warm and dry room I immediately headed back out into the tempest on the 5 kilometre walk out to Sutherland Falls. Sutherland Falls are the highest falls in New Zealand and I figured what better day to see them than a day when its bucketing down. I could hear the falls roaring like a jet aeroplane from over a kilometre away, by the time I got to the base of the falls the sound was deafening. I couldn't resist getting a photo next to the plunge pool, I was already soaked so what harm could a little more water do. Returning to the lodge I jumped into the hot shower and didn't get out until my tingling skin had thawed.
 |
Sutherland Falls.
 |
I can't get much wetter, Sutherland Falls.
 |
| The view from our room at Quintin Lodge. |
|
|
22 kilometres Mitre Peak Lodge 62 kilometres total
Our last day on the Milford dawned promising, there was a bit of low cloud but it looked like it might burn off. Everyone was off fairly early today as we had to finish in time to catch the ferry from Sandfly Point across to Milford Sound and our lodge. We were pretty keen to catch the early boat so we moved a little quicker today. Sure enough as we started to walk the low cloud slowly started to burn off revealing a multitude of waterfalls cascading down the sheer walls of the Arthur Valley, a by product of yesterday's precipitation. By the time we finished our smoko break at the boat shed the mountains lining the valley were almost clear of cloud.
 |
The weather on day 4 looked promising.
 |
Looking back towards Mackinnon Pass.
 |
Sam crossing the Arthur River.
 |
| Mackay Falls. |
|
|
|
After passing the prettiest waterfall on the tramp Mackay Falls, we continued on until we got to our lunch spot at Giant's Gate Falls. Once I'd finished scoffing down lunch I was in for my final swim of the tramp, Sam being content to shake her head and take photos. Now it was just a matter of ticking off the mile markers (there is a marker every mile on the whole track) until we arrived at Sandfly Point. With half an hour to go before the first ferry I figured that we'd do it easy, I didn't count on the last mile lasting for three however and in the end we made it to the early ferry with only a couple of minutes to spare, oh well at least we didn't get eaten by Sandflies at Sandfly Point. After a scenic thirty minute cruise we arrived in the tiny tourist town of Milford Sound and checked into our accommodation at Mitre Peak Lodge, Sam and I had been upgraded to the Mite Peak Suite, complete with spa bath, this guided trekking caper is hardcore! That night the guides presented everyone with a certificate of completion which is a nice touch. After dinner I pulled on my hiking havaianas and headed down to the foreshore to check out the stunning sunset.
 |
Giant's Gate Falls.
 |
hmmm.....
 |
| Nearing Sandfly Point. |
 |
Cruising over Milford Sound at the end of the tramp.
 |
Milford Sound from the nature walk opposite Mitre Peak Lodge.
 |
The view from our room at Mitre Peak Lodge.
 |
Hardcore tramping, Mitre Peak Lodge.
 |
Sunset Milford Sound.
 |
|
|
|
|
|
|
The Dirt.
Well rested after our night at Mitre Peak Lodge we awoke to an overcast morning for our cruise on Milford Sound. The mist slowly lifting like a curtain as we cruised the sound and by the time we finished the cruise there was large patches of blue sky about. If the weathers good on the short boat trip over from Sandfly Point at the end of the tramp don't waste the opportunity to get some photos as you never know what tomorrow will bring in Fiordland, last time we were here it absolutely bucketed down on the day of our cruise.
Speaking of bucketing down, the weather on the Milford can make or break some peoples tramps, the only piece of wisdom that I can offer about that is to enjoy what mother nature puts on for you. We had atrocious weather over Mackinnon Pass on this tramp but instead of far reaching views we had waterfalls falling from the sky and the beech forest at its primordial best, the bush comes alive in the rain. Fiordland is one of the wettest regions in the world so expect to get wet and enjoy it, on a guided walk there is always a hot shower and drying room at the end of the day.
Like I mentioned above we walked with
Ultimate Hikes and just like 9 years ago they provided a world class experience. There are about 60 punters on the trip and 4 guides tramping with us, it sounds like my idea of misery but the 60 people are easily absorbed into the bush and it was easy to find our own space on the track. Our head guide Grace and her three offsiders did a superb job of ushering everyone through some challenging terrain and whatever they get paid it should be doubled in my opinion, both this time and last the guides made the trip for me.
If this waffle has whet your appetite I have some more details and photos on my
Crazy Guy Journal, the journal reads like a magazine, click on the first page and then page through day by day. Incidently if you just want to check out photos and don't want to be bothered with the waffle you can click on a photo on the blog or in the journal and they will open in another window that you can scroll through.
 |
| Cruising the sound. |
 |
| There was a bit of low cloud around for our cruise. |
 |
| My weakness. |
 |
| Bowen Falls. |
No comments:
Post a Comment