Refugio Paine Grande to Refugio Los Cuernos via Valle Francés, The O Circuit, Torres del Paine Circuit - November 2012

Glacier Francés

Waking up today I emerged from the tent to what looked like another good day, we had been really lucky with the weather so far with only one day of rain/snow. We got a relatively early start today as we had a longish day ahead of us. Initially the path crossed above the northern most section of Lago Pehoé before we crossed over a low saddle and contoured along the side of Lago Skottsberg. Sections of duck boards made for an easy start to the day and there was plenty of unofficial lookouts to stop and rest at first up this morning. Even better news was that we also passed out of the burnt out section of the national park.

Lago Pehoé

The track followed the bushfire scared shore of Lago Pehoé to start the day.

Paine Grande from near Lago Pehoé.

Lago Skottsberg

Looking along Lago Skottsberg to the aqua coloured Lago Pehoé in the distance.

We'd passed out of the worst of the bushfire damaged area as we approached the turn off for Valle Francés.

It didn't seem like long, however it was probably a couple of hours when we came to Rio del Francis, which we crossed on two beautiful bridges. One of the highlights of the walk for me was variety of rustic bridges, all in varying states of decay, that we crossed. After crossing the river we arrived at Campamento Italiano where we stashed our packs and grabbed our stuff for the 13.5 kilometre side trip up Valle Del Francés.

Nico and Fred enjoying the easier conditions on the W.

Sandy and Ann crossing the Rio Francés.

As we crossed the Rio Francés we got our first good look at the Glacier Francés.

Rio Francés

We stashed our packs at Campamento Italiano for our side trip up the Valle Francés.

At the first water stop I sidled up to our guide Mauricio and asked him if it would be alright to walk up the valley on our own. He didn't have a problem with that, so Karyn, Petra and I headed towards the first lookout where we would wait for the group. The views getting more and more spectacular the higher up the valley we went, before long we were at the lookout over the French Glacier where we had plenty of time to take photos and soak up the view. I was glad to see a couple of beads of sweat on Karyn and Petra's foreheads as I was desperately trying to suck air into my lungs.

Climbing up the Valle Francés (the French Valley) towards Glacier Francés.

This little waterfall in the Valle Francés sounded like a jet plane roaring down into the valley.

There'd be no fording this one... although thankfully there was a bridge.

Looking back down Valle Francés towards Lago Nordenskjöld.

Glacier Francés

Soon we headed off to the lookout at the head of the valley, this time Fred also came along with us. The trail was a little more undulating until we got to Campamento Británico, from just after there it rose steeply up a rocky section before popping out at the final lookout. The view from the lookout was like being in a amphitheatre surrounded by jagged peaks, wherever I looked the view was astounding. I just couldn't do it justice in a photo no matter how hard I tried. We finished our lunch while perched on a rock taking in the view and waiting for the rest of the group to catch up.

Petra and I below Glacier Francés.

Glacier Francés from Valle Francés.

We were now heading further into the Valle Francés.

I enjoyed a quick break in the shelter at Campamento Británico.

From the lookout at the end of the Valle Francés.

After lunch it was time to tear ourselves away from this magical spot, Fred and I lingered near the back of the group on the way back down the valley taking photos and soaking up the view, serenaded by the occasional roar as the French Glacier deposited tonnes of ice, snow and rocks on the valley floor. All to soon we arrived back at Campamento Italiano and were reunited with our packs. The walk from Campamento Italiano to Refugio Los Cuernos was a short one taking less than two hours, once again Fred and I assumed our normal position at the back of the pack. The track undulates along the edge of Lago Nordenskjold on our right with Cuernos Del Paine towering above on the left. Just before reaching the refuge the track breaks out onto a small rocky beach, Nico, Fred and I lingered here taking photos and feeling the serenity (anyone from OZ will understand).

The shark tooth shaped mountain is Cerro Aleto de Tiburón.

The Valle Francés.

Valle Francés, Torres del Paine National Park.

We had a fair bit of time at the lookout at the end of the Valle Francés as we waited for the rest of our group to arrive.

Yes... maybe too much time!

Dropping back down the Valle Francés.

We crossed a few of these bare areas in the Valle Francés - I'm guessing that they may have been old land slip sites?

Due to our tardiness we managed to avoid an international incident at Refugio Los Cuernos. Cuernos was the first refuge that we were actually going to stay in and it would have been with some excitement that Ian and Dave strode their way to the bunk room only to be confronted by two scantily clad French girls, fresh out of the showers who proceeded to throw themselves at our two brave trekkers. By the time Fred and I turned up Ian and Dave were heading out the door of the refuge having decided that for their own safety they would pay for a tent. The more unlikely version of the events was the French girl's version, and that was they turned up their noses when two dirty, smelly trekkers invaded their room. Anyway that's how Fred and I found ourselves sharing a room with the French girls, Anne and Bernadette the English girls, and another girl who we didn't even realise was on the highest bunk until she descended from near the ceiling in the morning. Strangely, Fred and I didn't spend the night fending off the amorous advances of all the girls... yeah, who'd of thought!

Valle Francés, Torres Del Paine National Park.

Following the Rio Francés back down the Valle Francés.

The track was reasonably good again today - for the most part.

WE got one last look at Glacier Francés.

Ann and Dave taking a rock in the Valle Francés.

We've arrived back down at Lago Nordenskjöld.

The Dirt,

We walked around 26 kilometres and climbed around 400 metres on what I'd call a medium grade days walking. Over the 6 days of my Torres del Paine adventure so far I walked around 99.5 kilometres and climbed around 3050 metres. As we were now well into the W section of the walk the track conditions were pretty good today with sections of boardwalks and all the creeks and rivers bridged. The side trip up the French valley is a must do I think although it is a fairly long one and has a bit of climbing. For the only time on the walk I stayed in a refugio tonight. Refugio Los Cuernos provided not only a comfortable nights sleep but also a café, showers and flushing toilets... not to mention a great view of Cuernos del Paine towering overhead. I used the notes and basic map out of Cicerones Torres Del Paine - Trekking In Chile's Premier National Park.

Relevant Posts.

Day 5 of this walk, 2012.

Looking back towards Paine Grande.

The track broke out onto the shore of Lago Nordenskjöld late this afternoon.

Ann and some Feral looking bloke at Lago Nordenskjöld.

Cuernos del Paine from near Refugio Los Cuernos.

Refugio Los Cuernos, this was the only refuge where we spent a night indoors.