Monday, March 10, 2014

Nuku'alofa, Tonga 7th September 2013

How about a tropical Post, last September we stopped of in Tonga for a day, whilst on a cruise around the South Pacific. The thing with cruising is that you have got to make the most of your time in port as there are a lot of days at sea, after four full days at sea from Sydney we were ready to stretch our legs a bit.
Arriving at Vuna Wharf, Nuku'alofa.

To start the day we went on a ship tour out to Pangaimotu Island, the trip out from the domestic wharf only took 10-15 minutes. Once on the island we headed of the circumnavigate the island, looking for a beach that was sheltered from the wind, after about 10 minutes we got to a section that was sheltered by the island. On with the snorkelling gear we headed out for our first dive of this trip, unfortunately it was a bit underwhelming, the water was very rough, the wind was cold (relatively!), and there wasn't a lot in the way of coral or fish. After about thirty minutes we decided to get out and try another spot.




Continuing around the island we went past large sections where storm surges had inundated low lying sections, killing all the vegetation. The beach on the east of the island was particularly nice with palm trees arching over white sand. The whole island only takes about 45 minutes to walk around, and that's at a fairly slow pace stopping to take photo's. Arriving back at the wharf I decided to dive near a wreck that was a stones throw from the wharf, the water was choppy but I was hoping there may be some fish around the wreck.
Walking around Pangaimotu Island.

Storm surges had inundated a fair chunk of the island.

For me the wreck provide the best snorkelling on Pangaimotu Island, the water was clear and there was plenty of fish. Although the water was deep I was able to stand on the underwater deck of the wreck.
Diving the wreck near the jetty.











The jetty on Pangaimotu Island.



Waiting to head back to Nuku'alofa.
Getting back to Nuku'alofa we spent the afternoon checking out town, lunch was had at the Post Office Cafe before we headed out to the Royal Tombs, from there we headed back into town to check out Talamahu Markets, Sam can't resist checking out the shops. After the market we headed to Vuna Rd which runs along the coast, wandering up and down a bit, taking in life in Nuku'alofa. Eventually we headed back to Vuna Wharf were we boarded the ship in time to be on deck as we sailed away.
Lunch was had at Post Office Cafe.
Heading back into town, the Sun Princess towering over the town.

On the waterfront
Catching dinner

The Dirt
We really liked what we saw in Tonga, the people were very friendly and genuinely seemed to like having us there. Pangaimotu Island was low key (which is the way I like it).  Definitely a place we'd like to return to one day.



The Royal Palace, as we sail away from Vuna Wharf.


The sun setting as we sail away from Tonga.

Saturday, March 8, 2014

Overland Track, Cradle Mountain-Lake St Clair National Park - August 2003

How about a  retro post, in 2003 Skip and Dave and I decided to do the Overland Track in winter. We'd all done it before in other seasons, but wanted to experience it at its most harsh.
Climbing up to Crater Lake.

We got what we wanted, the day before setting off there was a big dump of snow at Cradle Valley, and it was still snowing heavily when we set off from Ronny Creek. By the time we reached Marion's Lookout it was necessary to don the snow shoes. Progress was slow as we made our way across to Kitchen Hut, the snow was over waist deep in places and even with snow shoes we were sinking deeply into the soft snow. We decided that the safest option would be to wait out the storm at Kitchen Hut, soon after two more guys turned up, and a little while later a party of five turned up who were heading back from Waterfall Valley, all of us ended up stuck in Kitchen Hut that night, needless to say floor space was a little tight.
Upstairs suite, Kitchen Hut.

Downstairs suite, Kitchen Hut.
Next day we continued across Cradle Cirque to Waterfall Valley Hut, the guys from Kitchen Hut decided to turn back from here as they didn't have enough food to allow for the slow pace in the deep snow. We had ten days of food and plenty of Bailey's Old Irish Cream, so we were quite looking forward to a slow trip.
Waterfall, Waterfall Valley.

Skip, Goin' Feral, Waterfall Valley Hut, no wonder the young blokes decided to turn back.

The snow continue the next day to Windermere Hut, with the walk across the tops past Lake Holmes being particularly narly. Another early day was called at Windermere while we watched the Pademelons foraging in the snow outside the hut.
Windermere Hut, at least the gas heater was working.
Next stop was the then new Pelion Ponderossa, er, I mean Pelion Hut. As with Windermere Hut, we had the whole hut to ourselves. The rangers had closed a partition to block of half the hut that sleeps sixty plus, but there was still ample room for a game of indoor cricket, just as well as the hut was freezing with the heater out of action.
Heading towards Pine Forest Moor.

No working heater in the new Pelion Hut.

Next day it was on to Kia Ora Hut, once again we had the hut to ourselves. The highlight of Kia Ora being the coal fired pot belly that heated the hut up nicely. On the trip over from Pelion, Skip and I had made an aborted attempt on Mt Ossa and Mt Pelion East, getting turned around both times due deep snow and icy rocks.
Kia Ora coal heater getting stoked up, the first time we'd been warm since leaving.

The weather was on the improve now and we finally left the consistent snow cover as we made our way to Windy Ridge Hut, the snow only getting deep as we crossed Du Cane Gap. The board walks however were coved in a thin layer of ice for most of the day which slowed progress somewhat. Arriving at the old Windy Ridge Hut in the middle of the afternoon, we grabbed the deck chairs out of the hut and lugged them down to the heli pad, where we soaked up the last of the weak afternoon sun.
Deck chairs on the Windy Ridge heli pad.

The old Windy Ridge Hut.
Pine Valley Hut was our next destination, once again the duck boards made for treacherous walking being covered in ice. At one stage the three of us were all flat on our backs having slid of the boards. Dumping the packs Skip and I made an afternoon attempt on The Acropolis, getting turned back under the final cliff line.
Snow gum on the track to The Acropolis.

Pine Valley Hut.
The next day we all made an ascent to The Labyrinth, in hindsight, the highlight of the trip. It was amazing to be there with the tarns and lakes frozen over. Skip and Dave retreated to the hut but I spent the whole day wandering around being extremely careful not to get lost in the snow covered terrain. That night back at Pine Valley Hut we had company for the first time since we had left Waterfall Valley Hut.
Frozen tarn in The Labyrinth.

Lake Elysia.
The aim for today was Echo Point Hut, but first I had to quell a small mutiny when we got to the ferry point at Narcissus Hut, Skip and Dave were all for catching the boat out, I was keen to walk the whole track. After a brief discussion about the pros and cons of the ferry we walked on, arriving mid afternoon at the tiny Echo Point Hut to luckily find it empty, we spent the remainder of the afternoon relaxing on the jetty, retreating into the tiny, but cosy hut as the sun went down. We spent the night eating all our left over supplies.
Echo Point Hut.

Eating all our left over food on the last night, Echo Point Hut.
The last day was a straight forward walk of about ten kilometres to Cynthia Bay, once again the weather held out for us and we finished the walk dryer than we started. After a pig out at the cafe, we jumped into my car and headed back to Cradle Valley so Skip could pick up his car and head off to meet the new lady in his life. All we had had heard for the previous ten days was Janty, Janty, Janty! Dave and I meanwhile retreated to the caravan park where we got a cabin and settled in for awhile to do a few day walks.
4 ks to go.
The finish, Cynthia Bay.
The Dirt
The Overland Track is a classic Australian walk, I've since done it again in the intervening years, walking from Penguin to Cynthia Bay. There are plenty of notes written for the walk including the guru Chapman. Walking in winter is a serious proposition and should only be tackled by experienced walkers. As for our fearless walkers, Dave is now confined to day walks due to dodgy joints, Skip and I walked the GR20 in Corsica together in 2013, thankfully all Skips talking about his new girl Janty has paid off as they have been together now for almost eleven years, which is about ten years longer than any other female had ever put up with him! Happily I still call Dave and Skip mates.

Skip and the lovely Janty.

Mornington to Frankston Coast Walk - 8th March 2014




Its a long weekend here in Melbourne, in my view that's a good weekend not to go away! Too much traffic, too many people, yeah I'm getting old and grumpy, at least that's what Sam says! What to do then? I've walked along the coast from Mornington to Frankston before although last time it was a bit of a death march as the temperature was in the mid 30 c, today promised mid 20 c and a low tide, to good to resist. To seal the deal it was only a short public transport journey from home.

After a train ride to Frakenstahn, and a bus to Mornington, I soon settled in for the first goal of the day, a long lunch at one of the many cafe's that line Mornington's main street. One newspaper, two coffee's, a steak sanga, and an hour and a half later I thought it would probably be a good idea if I actually started walking. Wandering down to the end of Main street I got a photo of a monument remembering some lost souls that perished in a ship wreck, this seemed like a suitable place to start a walk along the coast.
The monument at the bottom of Main Street, Mornington. Seemed like as good a place as any to start the walk.
The sun was starting to come out as I left Mornington.
Initially the weather was a bit overcast, but I snapped away anyway, I was hoping the sun would come out so I could give the polariser a bit of a workout. As far as I know there are no notes for this walk, I basically headed north along the coast, more or less rock hoping or walking on the beach the whole way.
Mornington Yacht Club is on the point.
I did say there was some rock hoping involved.
Soon enough the sun made its entrance, and together with a calm day  it made for some good photos. The beaches were starting to get a few people on them, although the only ones that remotely felt busy were Frankston and Sunny Side North, Sunny Side being a clothing optional beach it was as usual populated by blokes, life's kind of cruel really.
Sunny Side beach.
The best beach of the walk came after Sunny Side and that was Kunyung, Probably two kilometres of sand and crystal clear water with only a couple of people on it. I was now in my old back yard as I'd spent a lot of my teenage years living a few hundred metres from this beach.
Kunyung beach, did I mention that the water was clear.
Add caption

From Kunyung, looking back towards Mornington.


Kunyung boat sheds

With the tide low I stayed on the beach rock hoping around small headlands, the only times I had to climb the cliffs were to go around Canadian Bay Yacht Club and Davies Bay Yacht Club. Once past Davies Bay I was soon walking under the cliffs of Oliver's Hill with the Frankston pier looming in the distance.
Mt Eliza boat sheds.


Climbing to go around Canadian Bay Yacht Club.


The last section of the walk was along the Frankston foreshore board walk, which made for an easy finish for my feet. After crossing Kananook Creek twice I arrived a the Pier Hotel, another haunt from my past, this I decided was as good a place as any to officially finish the walk.
Cliffs between Canadian Bay and Daveys Bay.

Daveys Bay
The Dirt
Like I said earlier, as far as I know no one has written this walk up in any guidebooks, the walk  from the monument to the pub was 13.03 kilometres according to my GPS, and I climbed a grand total of 138 metres. If anyone wants to do this walk make sure you pick the tides, it would be extremely difficult with a high tide. Also take good boots, probably around 20 to 30% of the walk is over sharp and jagged rocks, not a place to fall over!


Frankston pier coming into view as I pass below Oliver's Hill.



Frankston boardwalk
The Pier Hotel, a classic Melbourne beer barn.



Friday, March 7, 2014

Bondi to Maroubra August 2013

I don't want this to be a strictly walking blog, there's a shit load of those online already, and a lot have better photo's or wittier writing than I am capable of. While my hobbies are Bushwalking and Mountain bike riding, my better half Sam and I also enjoy doing the usual tourist things, staying in nice hotels, going to the beach, and generally chilling out away from work. On my multi day journals I include the 'off days' (the days of travel before or after the walks, days playing tourist, etc) so I'll do the same on my blog.

The Bondi to Maroubra coastal walk.
Late last August we found ourselves up in Sydney preparing to leave on a cruise around the South Pacific, with an afternoon to kill and a new camera to try we decided to head down to Bondi and walk the coastal track down to Maroubra. Armed with notes out of John and Monica Chapman's, Day Walks in Sydney book we headed off south towards the Bondi Baths. Looking back now I'm not sure what happened on this walk, but I seem not to have taken many photo's, maybe they were all crap and I deleted them, I don't know.

There are views like this almost the whole walk
A short section of the track heads into the suburbs to avoid some private cliff top properties.
A rough section of the track around Lurline Bay
The walk itself is a cracker, beautiful views almost the entire way, it seemed like most of Sydney's beautiful people thought so to, its not often you see so much Lycra and bare skin on a bushwalk. The day was warm enough that quite a few people were out swimming and enjoying the beaches.We basically followed the coast south the whole way to Maroubra, only heading into suburbia around South Coogee to bypass some private property. After a relaxing four hour stroll of about 12 kilometres we rounded Mistral Point and Maroubra Beach started to come into view. In my mind Maroubra is famous for two things, the first being the Bra Boys, the notorious surf gang, and secondly the Maroubra Seals Club, most of my favourite rock bands made a career of touring through there.

Some of the wildlife
Maroubra Beach
If anyone wants some information on the walk go to http://www.john.chapman.name/index.html  its walk #40 in their Sydney Walks book. After grabbing a cold drink we were soon on the bus back to Circular Quay, dropping the gear off in the hotel, we headed down to the docks to go on a tour of the Sea Shepherd boat, the Sam Simon, ironically the boat was bought from the Japanese whalers for Sea Shepherd by an agent without the whalers being aware of who was buying it.

Sea Shepherd are in town

Dinner that night was in The Rocks, before we headed back to The Marriott for an early night. Tomorrow we'd be off to Hawaii and Tahiti among other exotic ports.



That's the back of Sam's head on the free Sea Shepherd tour.
We stayed at The Marriott, as seen from the upper deck of the Sam Simon
The view from the hotel


Pelion Hut to Mt Ossa return, Overland Track - April 2010

Mt Oakleigh from the Pelion Hut heli pad. I think the mountain just visible in the mist in the distance is Cradle Mountain... ... the flat t...