Five Mile Track to Morgan Beach, Cape Liptrap Coastal Park - February 2022

I'm going with the name The Two Apostles for these stacks.

I enjoyed some great coastal walking on this stroll.

This was my second foray down into the Cape Liptrap Coastal Park and (spoiler alert) to be honest this little park certainly packs a punch. The scenery, solitude and wild beaches make this place a Feral Favourite, although with no easy access it means that enjoying the highlights of this park requires a fair bit of work. After leaving Venus Bay there is no public access roads to the coast until you reach Cape Liptrap - twenty something kilometres further south. Public is the salient word in that last sentence though as for ordinary punters like me (and my Feral readers) there is no access, however if you have an off shore bank account in Panama then you may be able to afford one of the handful of flash private houses perched in the coastal scrub above the southern end of Morgan Beach.

There is room of around 3 vehicles in the small car park off the Walkerville Road.

I guess I won't be driving Five Mile Track!

It wasn't always so tough to access this section of the Victorian coastline though, less than 10 years ago there was a 4wd track called 5 Mile Track that allowed easy access to the coastline around halfway between Venus Bay and Cape Liptrap. It was that old track that I was using to get to the coast this morning, although 5 Mile Track is well and truly un-drivable now days, actually it turned out it was almost getting close to being un-walkable in a couple of spots now. Leaving the ute under the pine trees in a tiny carpark at the start of Five Mile Track I set off towards the coast, wading through the knee high, wet dewy grass I immediately had my doubts about whether I'd actually get through to the coast. Thankfully the knee high grass only lasted for a 100 metres or so, yes the high grass was soon replaced by blackberries - fuck this was going well!

I started off pushing through knee high grass.

Things settled down after 100 metres or so and I just had to contend with the blackberries.

There are some gnarly old Banksias along Five Mile Track.

This area of Victoria is home to a few wind farms.

Things settled down a bit the further I walked along Five Mile Track and by the time the rural land bordering the old road easement gave way to native bush the walking was pretty good really. After a couple of kilometres of ever improving walking I arrived at an old sign indicating that I had actually entered the Cape Liptrap Coastal Park and a couple of minutes later I found myself in the old, over grown car park that serviced Five Mile Track. From the old car park I had less than 1 kilometre to go to reach the coast and the walking was pretty similar to what I'd encountered on Five Mile Track - well, it was overgrown, however at least there weren't any blackberries. There is meant to be an old camp site along here (the spot that is recommended if doing the overnight Cape Liptrap - Venus Bay Walk), however while I noticed a couple of spots that were possible places to pitch a tent, none of them were what I'd call optimal. Thankfully it wasn't long after leaving the old car park that I crested a dune and suddenly had Bass Strait ahead of me and deserted beaches running as far as I could see in either direction.

There is some quite nice rural land along Five Mile Track.

Easy going on Five Mile Track.

The tracks almost gone however the sign posting for the old track is still there...

... as well as the old carpark. 

The conditions were much the same after I left the old car park and headed for the coast.

Bass Strait has just come into view.

How lucky are we in Australia to be able to enjoy places like this without the crowds.

I went left this morning.

Today was meant to be a fairly warm day and from here on there would be virtually no shade until I arrived back here many, many hours later. Once on the wide beach I turned south and started trudging my way towards a distant rocky out break known as Little Point. Even with the tide running fairly high the beach made for fairly easy walking this morning and I was able to enjoy watching the Bass Strait swell crashing into the sand. Arriving at Little Point I had to make my first serious decision for the day, the choice that I had to make was of scrambling over the small peninsula of rock or skirting around the rocks at water level. Taking into account that I was still a little un-fit after my Covid induced inaction (and the fact that I had a fair bit of climbing of cliffs coming up) I was pretty keen on the water side traverse. Thankfully the crux of the water level traverse was only fairly short, so I was able to wait for some waves to roll through and then make my move between the sets, successfully getting through with dry boots.

I set off south on a 6 kilometre beach walk now. 

The loneliness of the solo walker!

Approaching Little Point the coastline got a little rockier. 

As is fairly normal down here, Bass Strait was pumping this morning.

Someone has gone to a lot of trouble to build this little shelter at Little Point - a fisherman I guess?

Little Point can require a scramble at high tide...

... although I was able to get around the base of the rocks with dry boots this morning.

Once around Little Point my next objective was in view in the distance - Arch Rock. Between Little Point and Arch Rock the easy beach walking continued, although the closer I got to Arch Rock the more rockier the coast got. Arch Rock is actually just off shore so I had to be content with the view from the beach this morning however it marked the spot where I'd leave the water and climb up to start a long traverse along the limestone cliffs. This was also where the walking ramped up quite a few notches both in the scenery stakes and also the physical and technical requirements. 

I could see Arch Rock in the distance as I crossed Ten Mile Creek.

Bass Strait.

Arch Rock - there hasn't been an actual arch for many years.

Arch Rock.

I used this gully to climb up onto the cliff tops.

The walking was about to get a lot rougher - while the scenery was also about to ramp up a few notches. 

Allegedly there use to be a track across the tops of these cliffs however any track now is long gone, what there is now is a series of openings that may or may not have been old tracks interspersed by reasonably short sections of scratchy coastal scrub. It wasn't long after reaching the cliff tops when I stumbled upon the rusting remains of an old differential resting in the wind pruned coastal scrub, so yes there must of been tracks up here at some stage. I now set off on a fairly slow journey along the cliff tops until I reached Morgan Beach. While the terrain was a little rough and untracked the main reason that this section was slow was that I was stopping so frequently to take photos.

Over the years there has been tracks up here although now days it's pretty well off-piste walking.

Arch Rock from my cliff top ramble.

Initially the cliff top walking wasn't overly tough.

The Two Apostles from the cliffs.

I was checking out the potential swimming spots as I made may way along the cliffs.

Looking back towards Arch Rock from the cliff tops.

The scrub near the cliff edges is very wind pruned. 

After making my way past Arch Rock and the Two Apostles (actually the Two Apostles may be a Feral Fact) the stunning walking continued as I slowly inched my way south. These cliff tops consist of jagged limestone with the occasional sandy swale in between, all vegetated with some very hardy coastal scrub. The go along here is to stay fairly close the cliff edges all the while keeping in mind that these cliffs are frequently severely under cut and very un-stable, actually I'm starting to think that these un-stable cliffs are the reason that Parks Vic don't really promote or facilitate this stroll - it's certainly not a lack of great scenery.

Cape Liptrap Coastal Park.

Looking back at Arch Rock.

Cape Liptrap Coastal Park.

My destination was Morgan Beach - it's just come into view in the distance.

Cape Liptrap Coastal Park.

If anyone follows my footsteps down here try a pick a sunny day as the colours are stunning.

Cape Liptrap Coastal Park.

All going well I'll be walking that beach in an hour or so.

The last 100 metres or so before I dropped down onto the sand of Morgan Beach provided the toughest walking for the day as the thick scrub almost reached the cliff edges, so by the time I was back down at water level I was ready for a bit of a break. Instead of pulling up stumps for awhile I decided that it would be a good idea to push on and get the waterline traverse back up to Arch Rock over with while the tide was still pretty low. I've never actually heard of anyone getting through this section of the coast at water level so after checking out Morgan Creek I approached the first of the cliffs with a little apprehension this afternoon.

Just before dropping down onto Morgan Beach the scrub got a little tougher to negotiate. 

Morgan Beach.

The cliff top walking is a mixture of fractured limestone and scrub.

I dropped down this gully onto the sand.

Morgan Beach.

Morgan Beach.

Morgan Creek heading for Bass Strait.

I was going to be walking the base of the cliffs now. 

Once around the first big bluff I picked up a fairly long section of sand, the cliffs lining the beach seemingly crumbling in-front of my eyes sometimes. This isn't a spot to walk too close to the base of the cliffs and for the next three kilometres or so I made sure that I stayed as far away from the potential impact zone as possible. Just before I reached the Two Apostles again the coastline got very rough and I found myself walking across some very jagged and un-even rocks, this isn't a spot that you'd want to fall over as these rocks were incredibly sharp (they actually reminded me of walking on the lava fields in Hawaii). Needless to say progress was fairly slow along here and it was around 3pm by the time that I finally passed by the Two Apostles and found myself a nice little beach to go for a skinny dip.

It pays to stay as far as possible from the base of the cliffs...

... I could almost see them crumbling before my eyes this afternoon.

Cape Liptrap Coastal Park.

While the scenery was stunning the walking was sometimes pretty slow.

There was a couple of freshwater springs along the base of the cliffs.

It was fairly warm afternoon and I was pretty well ready for a swim by now. 

I'd lugged my mask and snorkel in here today however I couldn't bring myself to carry my fins in on a 26+ kilometre walk and as soon as I entered the water I was regretting that decision a little. With the waterproof camera in one hand it left me with just one free hand to try and swim and almost immediately I found myself on the Bass Strait Express, hmm. Now riding the rip out wasn't really an issue and I soon manoeuvred myself into a big sheltered pool beneath the apostles and was able to enjoy some calm snorkelling (visibility was a little ordinary through). Getting back to dry land was going to be more of an issue though and as soon as I rounded the rocky reef that protected my snorkelling spot I was back in the rip. With only one free hand to make forward progress it was a tough swim back onto land - I was never in any real danger as in the worst case I could of swum parallel to the coast which would of got me out of the rip and I would of been able to bodysurf a wave in, however I only had to go about twenty metres towards dry land and I knew that I'd be able to touch the sand - so I preserved with one hand (actually a lot of people would say I preserve with one hand too much, but I digress!). Needless to say after my little snorkelling expedition I was pretty keen to pull on my clothes and boots and resume the easy part of today's adventure - the 26 kilometres walk!

The Two Apostles have just come into view. 

My swim was a very welcome interlude on what was a long and exposed stroll.

I'm in my natural environment now.

Arch Rock from water level.

I swam at at the beach on the north side of The Two Apostles - I wouldn't advise swimming here unless you are a very competent swimmer and understand rips as you are a long way from help.

I'm thinking that this is a petrified tree - although that could be another Feral Fact.

Shortly after resuming my walk I crossed the last rocky section of the coast and re-joined my outward route near Arch Rock. With my mornings footprints still the only ones on the sand I set off on my late afternoon trudge back up the beach to the Five Mile Track. It seems as though the wind had swung around to the north east while I was swimming, so instead of enjoying what I'd thought would of been a slight south easterly tail wind I was dealing a slight head wind. With bugger all in the way of shelter on my 6 kilometre beach stroll I was starting to get a bit weather beaten by now (arriving home a few hours later I discovered that my sunscreen was two years out off date - doh! no wonder I got a bit burnt). 

After my swim I had a little bit more walking below the cliffs...

... along with one last section of gnarly rock hopping.

The last of the cliffs.

Arch Rock.

That footprint look familiar - my tracks were still the only ones on the beach.

Cape Liptrap Coastal Park.

Arriving back at Five Mile Track I climbed the soft sand away from the beach and entered the coastal vegetation, enjoying some shade for the first time in around 8 hours. My walk back along Five Mile Track passed by fairly quickly and painlessly - when I'd headed out this track this morning there had been a nagging apprehension in the back of my mind that I might not be actually able to reach the coast, so now having successfully made it through I was able to relax and enjoy my return journey a bit more. While Five Mile Track is never going to be a walking destination in it's own right, the late afternoon sun lighting up the surrounding rural land along with the Wind Farms that tower overhead made the walk interesting enough... and remember I mentioned blackberries this morning, well I was able to enjoy a free feed of ripe berries on the way back as there was no danger anyone would have got in here to spray them. It was around 7pm when I arrived back at the ute tonight after around 11 hours of walking and needless to say it was a nice feeling pulling off the boots and settling into the comfortable drivers seat for two and a half hour drive home.

The wind was howling in from the right - I had around 5 kilometres of beach to go.

Back at Ten Mile Creek - I reckon I'd camp here if I'd split the walk into two days.

Bass Strait.

Just north of Little Point is this little rock stack - it's notable as it's pretty well the last shade until Venus Bay if you are doing the two day walk here.

There was a red drum marking the start of Five Mile Track when I went through on this visit.

The track was fairly overgrown as it crosses the dunes however it soon becomes clear.

The Dirt.

According to my GPS I walked about 26.5 kilometres and climbed around 804 metres (which seems highly optimistic) on this hard walk. Now while I really enjoyed this walk there are a few things that need to be considered if visiting here. The first thing to watch for is Five Mile Track itself, the track is walkable, however it's quickly returning to nature, the first half a kilometre after leaving the carpark beside Walkerville Road being particularly overgrown and gnarly. The next thing to consider is that once on the beach there was virtually no shelter until I left the beach many hours later. Next, anyone visiting here needs to take into account the rough conditions on the cliff top traverse down to Morgan Beach (it gets rougher towards Morgan Beach), the fractured limestone and scratchy wind pruned coastal scrub require some perseverance to deal with. Once off the cliffs the sea level traverse of the cliffs also needs a little caution, first the tide has to be almost out, second the sometimes jagged and rocky shoreline has to be negotiated and thirdly anyone walking here should stay well away from the base of these unstable cliffs. If anyone decides to follow me and safely negotiates all those potential issues and then thinks they'll celebrate with a cheeky skinny dip then that is potentially the most dangerous part of the days adventure, I'm not talking sunburn on tender parts though - no the big danger is swimming in Bass Strait. If anyone does swim here then they really need to critically assess their ability, it's a long way from any help and the conditions are very wild. I used the notes and map out of Mr Tempest's book Daywalks Around Victoria on this stroll although when he wrote his notes Five Mile Track was still drivable, I also used my Alltrails App and my GPS topos.

Relevant Posts.

Cape Liptrap to Venus Bay, Cape Lip[trap Coastal Park, 2018.

I'm thinking that this is the official Parks Vic Camp- I'd give it a miss unless the wind was blowing fairy strong on-shore.

Old car park - check. Wind farm - check. I was ticking off the attractions as I headed back towards the ute along Five Mile Track.

I'm thinking that my bovine mates don't see a lot of walkers along here.

I was able to enjoy a feed of fresh blackberries on my way back to the ute.

Walkerville Road (and the end of my stroll) runs beneath those pine trees.

Yes, I'm a little bit tired, a bit salty and sweaty, however I enjoyed the drive home with that familiar euphoric feeling I get after a great day out.