Mt St Gwinear to Mustering Flat Walk, Baw Baw National Park - November 2020

The AAWT passing through the Snow Gums near Mt St Phillack. The Snow Gums up here are really a feature of this walk.

Mustering Flat is one of the places that I've had a go at visiting over the years, however actually getting there has never really come off. I've glanced down in the direction of the flat from Phillack Saddle many times and on one occasion I'd even got halfway down to the flat only to be beaten back by lack of time and some reasonably thick scrub. Both Mr Chapman and Mr Siseman mention a pad running down to Mustering Flat from Phillack Saddle although I've never found any evidence of it on my visits. Anyway with an afternoon to spare I decided to head back up to Baw Baw National Park and have another go at checking out the elusive Mustering Flat. On my other half hearted attempts to get to the flat I'd come in from the Mt Baw Baw Village however this afternoon I figured that I'd change things up a bit and make the walk into a circuit of sorts and come in from the Mt St Gwinear Car Park. 

It was already mid afternoon by the time I'd set off today.

Arriving at the car park in a cloud of dust I was feeling pretty good as I pulled on my gaiters, grabbed my pack, re-set the GPS and shuffled off up the Mt St Gwinear walking track, although setting off on a bit of an exploratory walk at around 3pm wasn't exactly optimal... The walking track up to Mt St Gwinear is signposted as heading to the lookout platform (or something similar) and it climbs fairly solidly through the Alpine Ash before it does indeed arrive at a small lookout... that has views of more trees but little in the way of long range views. Now the lookout isn't really anywhere near the summit of Mt St Gwinear so after a perfunctory attempt at a decent photo from the lookout I shuffled off up the walking track again heading for the summit.

The walking track climbed solidly up to a lookout platform.

The lookout platform was fairly low key.

The view from the lookout platform was pretty low key too.

After leaving the lookout the walking track climbed to meet a cross country ski trail.

Fifteen minutes after leaving the viewing platform the walking track merged with the cross country ski trail and I veered left along the wider trail towards the summit. After avoiding the summit bypass track that veered off a little to to the north I was soon sitting on the Mt St Gwinear summit taking in the view. On a lot of the peaks on the Baw Baw Plateau the views are pretty well blocked by the Snow Gums however Mt St Gwinear is the exception, the views north and east are fairly extensive from the summit and include the Thomson Dam and even the small patch of cleared land over at Aberfeldy, many kilometres away (the other peak with a decent view up here is actually the lookout near the top of Mt Baw Baw). With not a lot of daylight up my sleeve this afternoon I didn't linger for too long on the summit now, soon shouldering my pack and shuffling my way south west across a nice snow plain to meet the Australian Alps Walking Track at Camp Saddle.

The ski trail is well marked with snow poles. 

Approaching the Mt St Gwinear summit.

The view north east from Mt St Gwinear is one of the better view points on the Baw Baw Plateau.

Leaving Mt St Phillack I crossed this nice little snow plain to meet up with the AAWT.

Turning north west along the AAWT I now climbed over Mt St Phillack which at 1565 metre is the highest spot on the plateau, although there are no long range views through the Snow Gums. Actually speaking of Snow Gums (I've probably waffled on about this before so skip this next bit if you've heard this before!) the Snow Gums on the Mt Baw Baw Plateau are stunning. Where most of our alpine country has been severely burnt in numerous once in a hundred year fires over the last few decades this little island of alpine scrub has mercifully emerged unscathed... so far. The Snow Gums up here are incredibly beautiful and the fairly mature trees up here are increasingly rare, so if anyone who's reading this waffle loves these trees like I do and is considering a visit then please be careful with fire. Dropping off the summit of Mt St Phillack the AAWT soon had me down at Phillack Saddle and the afternoons hard work was about to begin.

The views from Mt St Phillack are restricted by the trees - but what beautiful trees they are!

Arriving at Phillack Saddle I was about to drop into this shallow gully.

As I've eluded too both Chapman and Siseman talk about a pad dropping from the saddle down to Mustering Flat. Now I've never found that pad however sitting at home reading my notes in the comfort of my lounge room I figured that maybe I just didn't try hard enough, after all Mr Chapman mentions the option of dropping down to Mustering Flat off the AAWT to camp for the night if you are passing through on the way to Canberra... surely it couldn't be that hard! So...leaving Phillack Saddle to the walkers who were camping there for the night I left the AAWT and waded into the waist high scrub looking for my elusive pad. After 15 minutes wading through and sometimes on top of the scratchy scrub, I could still clearly see the Snow Gum where I'd left the AAWT above me, but what I couldn't see was any sign of a pad! I wasn't going to be easily deterred this time though so I kept on pushing down the gully following a beautiful little creek, making my way down rocks, through sections of thick Tea Tree and negotiating the ever present scratchy alpine scrub (have I mentioned that I'd come prepared in shorts?). After what felt like hours, however was probably more like 45 minutes I could see the elusive Mustering Flat through the trees in front of me and after one last particularly gnarly section of head high scrub I finally pushed my way out onto the more open ground... fuck me, that was way tougher than described!

Allegedly there is a pad down here... although I've never found any evidence of it!

After much pain Mustering Flat has just come into view through the trees... happy days!

I still had one more belt of shoulder high scrub to push through though!

So now I'd finally stepped foot on the elusive Mustering Flat it was time to explore a little. With the daylight hours ticking away I decided to cross the flat following the creek that drains the flat in a north east direction, my theory being that my old maps and notes talk about a small waterfall that drains the flat that I thought that I might be able to check out (after all my old notes and maps had been so accurate so far!). Mustering Flat is really just a large Sphagnum Moss swamp and I quickly realised that walking across it wasn't going to be the most ecologically sensitive decision, so instead I skirted around the eastern side of the flat through the low scrub. With the creek starting it's descent down into the Thomson River Valley and the scrub once again getting higher and scratcher I stopped for a bit of a break and to take stock of the situation, my thighs were now pretty well red raw from the scrub and daylight was running out - and with a fair section of off piste walking still ahead of my to get my back to a walking track - I decided that I'd better start heading back to the ute, the waterfall could wait for another day.

Mustering Flat, Baw Baw National Park.

Mustering Flat, Baw Baw National Park.

Mustering Flat, Baw Baw National Park. I'd dropped down the gully on the right of the photo.

I skirted around the edge of Mustering Flat.

I followed the small creek that drains the flat looking for a waterfall...

... this was as far as I got though. Daylight and enthusiasm were both running low now. 

Now remember I'd talked about a circuit walk of sorts, well this is where the circuit bit comes in. Instead of retracing my scrubby gully back up to Phillack Saddle I was going to head west to pick up the walking track below Mt St Gwinear. Once again Mr Siseman talks of a pad heading across here and even my Rooftop map showed a rough route, however I was dubious...to say the least! After retracing my way partly back across Mustering Flat, eying off the scrubby gully where my track allegedly lay waiting for me I decided to abandon that plan and just strike off across country. Normally on an off track walk I'd stay well clear of the gullies and stick to the drier slopes on the sides of the hills so that's what I decided to do on my return journey. Picking a saddle between two hills to aim for I found that the walking was a lot easier, yes, there were belts of tough scrub however there were also easier sections of light to moderate scrub so my legs were getting a bit of a reprieve. Cresting the saddle and starting the descent down to Gwinear Flat on the other side, my cunning plan had paid off, after ten minutes I was on Gwinear Flat and the hardest walking was over. Shuffling my way across the plain I crossed North Cascade Creek on an old bridge, the first real sign of any track for hours, and then after a short climb I re-joined my outward walking track just below the summit of Mt St Gwinear...happy days! 

Retracing my outward route along the creek.

Pushing through the low heath back around Mustering Flat again.

Instead of looking for a rough pad along the gully I climbed up and over a saddle between two hills to get to Gwinear Flat.

The slopes of the hills weren't exactly devoid of scrub however they were a lot easier than the gullies. 

One more push through the scrub and I'll be on Gwinear Flat.

By the time I climbed up to the summit of Mt St Gwinear for the second time this afternoon I was feeling pretty well shagged out. Arriving back on the summit close to sunset I settled on a soft rock and enjoyed the views for awhile. The afternoon had been pretty warm, but also grey and overcast at the same time, so the setting sun was pretty well my last hope for a great photo today a hope that only partially paid off, still sitting up here in the light breeze as the last of the days light seeped away life was pretty good. Eventually I resigned myself to the fact that there'd be no great photos today and shuffled of back down the St Gwinear Car Park. Instead of retracing the walking track back down to the ute I decided to follow the grassy cross country ski trail back down, this grassy track was a little longer however the slightly gentler gradient was appreciated as I meandered my way down to the ute. The light was pretty well all gone by the time I jumped into the ute and headed for home tonight. It was close to 11pm by the time I finally pulled up in my driveway today after what had been a fairly solid day out - for an old bloke!

Gwinear Flat.

Looking east off Gwinear Flat, North Cascade Creek drains this small snow plain.

Crossing North Cascade Creek on an old bridge - my first evidence of a track for many hours. 

Meeting my outward walking track I climbed the last few metres up to Mt St Gwinear.

Taking in the view from the Mt St Gwinear summit while I had a bit of a rest - it would be all down hill from here.

The Dirt.

According to my GPS I walked around 13.6 kilometres and climbed around 491 metres on what I'd call a hard grade days walking. The stats don't really tell the story of this walk, its the thick and scratchy alpine scrub that ramps things up a bit on this stroll. Both Mr Chapman and Siseman have mentioned tracks/pads that follow gullies. If /when I revisit Mustering Flat I'm not even going to try and find these routes - instead I'm going to go in and out by my return route over the low saddle to the north west of Mt St Gwinear, this route was rough but more enjoyable than the scrubby gullies. Apart from my old notes and maps I also used the Rooftop's Walhalla - Woods Point Forest Activities Map, although the rough route shown on that map was also pretty well gone too. For walkers experienced with off track walking in scrubby conditions this is a walk worth considering, although unlike me come with some long pants for the scrub though!

Relevant Posts.

Mushroom Rocks to Whitelaw Hut Site, AAWT, 2017.

Baw Baw Village to Mt St Phillack Circuit, 2016.

Looking north east from Mt St Gwinear. The little bit of cleared land on the ridge in the middle distance is the tiny settlement of Aberfeldy.

I dropped down the slightly longer ski trail through Jeep Track Flat on the way back to the ute.

Approaching the car park it was pretty well dark now.

Time to start dodging the deer on my drive home out of the mountains.

Mt Kooyoora Camp to Melville Caves Campground via West Ridge, Kooyoora State Park - November 2020

The view over breakfast wasn't too bad...

I enjoyed a very comfortable night up on Mt Kooyoora last night. Last night was the first opportunity that I'd had to try out my new Zpacks tent along with my new Tier Gear quilt and I was more than happy with the performance of both these pieces of new kit. I'd been a little concerned that condensation may have been an issue in the single skin tent however last night it wasn't a problem. I'll hold my final judgement a little longer on my tent though because I'm guessing that a coolish night with a light breeze would be almost the optimal conditions for this type of tent...we'll see how it goes in some decent rain or humidity. My quilt had me questioning why that I'd waited so long to make the change from a sleeping bag, the extra flexibility and comfort was very noticeable to me.

The sun was just lightening the eastern horizon when I emerged from my tent this morning.

Looking north from Mt Kooyoora towards Mt Korong.

My night up on Mt Kooyoora had been a comfortable stay.

With the sun lightening the eastern horizon I emerged from my Dyneema cocoon to take in the morning. Breakfast was enjoyed perched on a rock watching the colours change as the sun slowly inched its way higher. Even though I was mucking about taking photos and generally piss farting around I was still packed up and leaving camp before 8am this morning, helped by the fact that my new tent was quick to put up and even quicker to pack it away. After shoehorning all my gear into my other new piece of kit on this stroll, my HMG Windrider pack, I meandered off west along the long summit ridge line.

Looking south across Kooyoora State Park from Mt Kooyoora.

It was looking like it was going to be a cracker of a day.

Early morning looking north west from Mt Kooyoora.

It was time to put the camera away for awhile and do some walking.

I was now basically heading along a high ridge that runs more or less westerly from the Mt Kooyoora summit. Initially I dropped a little to the south-west to bypass some big granite cliffs before following the ridge down into a high saddle between Mt Kooyoora and West Peak. Now that all sounds easy enough and indeed every time I visualise one of these off track strolls I always seem to see myself frolicking my way across gently undulating open country. Unfortunately just like a lot of other fantasies the reality is never as pleasant. While the descent into the saddle was by no means the toughest off piste walking that I've ever done there was enough scrub around to keep me on my toes picking the route of the least resistance.

 

Following the ridge line west the walking was pretty good as far as off track walking goes.

I was dropping into a saddle...

... before climbing onto West Peak.

The views to the north from the ridge were extensive. 

The climb to West Peak from the saddle was a good one as the country opened up a bit and the scrub thinned out a bit. The good news this morning was that there are pretty well constant long range views either south across the rocky Kooyoora State Park or north across the golden paddocks towards Mt Korong. Less than an hour after leaving the summit I clambered onto the rock slab crowning the West Peak and it was time for smoko. I haven't mentioned it yet however the weather today was pretty well perfect for walking and sitting up here on my rocky platform basking in the warm sun my recent time in Iso seemed a long way away.

Climbing from the saddle towards West Peak.

Looking back towards Mt Kooyoora. I'd skirted around those cliffs buttressing the north side of the mountain. 

There are some gnarly old trees up here...

... clinging to life.

Looking south from West Peak. I'd skirt around that cleared land in another couple of hours.

West Peak. There's a small cave below the rock that crowns the summit here.

Looking back towards Mt Kooyoora from West Peak.

Leaving West Peak I continued on in a westerly direction, now dropping fairly steeply down West Spur. I was now going to follow this spur west for the next hour until I reached Mt Kooyoora Track. As I've mentioned, initially the descent was pretty steep and I had to concentrate a little to pick the safest route down through the rocks and scrub. After half an hour or so of slightly tricky walking both the gradient and the scrub eased off and the walking was about as good as it gets, beautiful open grassy country littered with big rocks and a very gentle downhill gradient - perfect for a broken old man like me;)

Dropping off West Peak the walking got a little steeper and scrubbier for a little while.

Once down the steepest bit below West Peak my spur opened up a bit.

I passed by the famous But Plug Rock as I descended West Spur.

This is what I imagine when I decide to go walking off piste - it rarely works out this good though.

More granite slabs on West Spur.

West Spur gets very broad towards the bottom so it pays to keep an eye on your navigation.

Shuffling passed Magic Mushroom Rock towards the bottom of West Spur.

West Spur, Kooyoora State Park.

Reaching Mt Kooyoora Track I followed it south for half an hour to meet up with Mount View Road, well I should of met Mount View Road. Instead I got a little cocky and when I spied a dirt track in roughly the spot where Mount View Track should be I cut across country to intersect with the dirt track, and all was good for a few minutes until I came to a gate blocking the track... hmm, I'd picked up a farm access track that runs almost parallel with Mount View Road. Oh well, not to worry, a short off track section later and I was indeed on Mount View Track and now heading east. Unlike Mt Kooyoora Track Mount View Road was open to vehicles although I wasn't exactly bothered by traffic this morning, I spent around an hour either trudging along, or sitting beside Mount View Road and only had two 4wd's rattle past.

I've just sighted Mt Kooyoora Track through the trees.

Nice easy walking along Mt Kooyoora Track.

Mt Kooyoora Track wasn't without it's attractions.

I swung off Mt Kooyoora Track to pick this track up thinking it was Mount View Road... I was wrong!...

... arriving at the cleared land I realised my error. A short off piste walk south...

.... and I picked up the real Mount View Road.

I'd decided to freelance a little now, instead of heading straight back towards Melville Caves Camp and the ute I swung south along a very old a fairly faint 4wd track. This grassy track took me south, dropping fairly easily as I passed to the west of the huge rocks around Melville Caves which were easily visible in the distance. After passing through some very nice country my old track started to swing around to the east and head towards the park access road, although with the country still being fairly open and the gradient fairly gentle I once again headed off across country to intersect the access road a bit closer to Melville Caves, scaring a few roos and thousands of cockies along the way.

Taking in the view north towards Mt Kooyoora as I trudged along Mount View Road.

Morning smoko was enjoyed beside Mount View Road.

Leaving Mount View Road I picked up this very old, faint and un-named 4wd track that headed south.

My old track skirted around Melville Caves to the west.

Once I'd met up with the sealed access road I swung left and climbed fairly gently up towards the large Melville Caves Picnic Area. Arriving at the picnic area I suddenly found myself confronted with a heaving mass of humanity as it appeared that big mobs of punters were out enjoying the first Saturday of freedom in months. Over the two days of my walk up until now I'd seen only 5 other people... and they were all at a distance from me, so suddenly seeing so many people was a little confronting. Bypassing the picnicking punters I was now going to climb up to Melville Caves before dropping back to the ute in the camping ground, however arriving at the start of the track I found that Parks Vic had the track closed. 

Leaving my old closed track I struck out east across country again to meet up with the park access road.

More nice off piste walking. Kooyoora State Park.

Meeting up with the sealed park access road I climbed it for a short distance up to the Melville Caves Picnic Area.

My ongoing track up to Melville Caves looked... problematic!

Now it would of easily been possible to skirt the plastic barrier and make my merry way up the closed track, however being the law abiding compliant citizen that I am (cough) I decided to give it a miss. Instead I shuffled up the park access track a few more metres until I arrived at an old walking track that started behind a concrete tank and climbed this old track up to the Melville Caves Lookout instead. My walk was pretty well over now and I spent a few minutes poking around the huge boulders that make up Melville Caves. After checking out the caves I dropped down to the Melville Caves Carpark along the tourist walking track before ambling the last few metres of my walk back down to the camp ground and the waiting ute.

While the main walking track was closed off I was able to pick up the old track which heads off behind the tank.

It looks like there is a bit of a spring here.

The old track made for a solid climb up to Melville Caves.

I was heading up to the lookout on the top of the rocks (squint and you might see it).

The rocky Kooyoora State Park.

The Dirt.

According to my GPS I walked around 12.3 kilometres and climbed 333 metres on today's medium grade stroll. The first 3 kilometres today was totally off track and the section heading south along the old 4wd track that heads off Mount View Road is fairly faint in spots, the short cut east across to the park access road was also totally off piste. Having said all that the off track walking up here is pretty good really, sure there is a little bit of scratchy scrub about I needed to negotiate some steep country in a few spots but overall it was generally very pleasant. Likewise the 4wd track section are better than maybe imagined as they were virtually traffic free. It was only really when I hit the park access road that I started to encounter other people, the picnic ground and camp[ground being particularly busy today.

Over the two days of this stroll I walked 17.3 kilometres and climbed 557 metres according to my GPS. While it could be argued that this walk doesn't have the wow factor that some walks have, what this walk does have is peacefulness and remoteness. Walking at the end of months of Corona lockdown it was only really the more touristy area around Melville Caves that was busy. There is no reliable ground water on this walk so the safest bet is to bring your H2O, after rain it would be possible to get water in a few rock pools and seeps. I used a combination of Mr Tempest and Mr Thomas' notes and mud maps on this stroll as well as my GPS topos.

Relevant Posts.

Day 1 of this walk, Kooyoora State Park, 2020.

The Melville Caves area of the park features a lot of these big rocks, it's worth spending some time checking them out especially if you have kids with you.

Dropping down the Melville Caves tourist track to the car park.

Shuffling the last few metres of my stroll towards the now very busy Melville Caves Camp Ground.