Routeburn Track, New Zealand - December 2005

After Sam and I walked the Milford Track we backed up a couple of days later to walk the Routeburn Track. Little did we know at the time but walking these two tracks back to back was going to provide people with one of the most common questions that we get asked about walking, that is 'which is the better track Milford or Routeburn?' It's a bit like comparing a Benz to a BMW but I'll see if I can give you an answer by the end of the post.

Checking out the view on Key Summit.

A tantalizing glimpse from Key Summit.

Day 1.  16 kilometres.
After a mid morning pick up in Te Anau we were dropped off at a very damp trail head at the Divide. The Routeburn starts with a bit of a climb up to Howden Hut which is situated on Lake Howden. Unfortunately there would be no views of the lake today, the hut was filled with damp hikers eating their lunches and psyching themselves up for a damp afternoons tramping. Now any sane person would settle in close to the fire and savour the dry warmth, so that's probably explains why I decided to head up Key Summit. I was working on the theory that the weather would clear at some stage and it might well be when I get to the summit, and you know what? It didn't clear, who would have guessed, hey! So after completing the small nature walk on the summit and peering into the gloom for awhile hoping for a break I decide that I'd better cut my loses and head back to Sam at the hut.

Following the western side of the Ailsa Mountains, heading towards
 Earland Falls.

Earland Falls.

Reunited with a warm and dry wife we set off for the afternoons walk to Lake Mackenzie Lodge. As I was already soaked a little more rain didn't really bother me that much, the rain even had its positives as we walked past a series of waterfalls coming down from what I presume is a plateau above, although from our position it looked like they were falling out of the low cloud. Earland Falls was probably the pick of the falls, well its the only one I remember the name of anyway. After passing through a section of the track that had been cleared of big trees by an avalanche, called the Orchard we soon arrived at Lake Mackenzie Lodge. On days like today the luxury of a guided walk really comes into itself, it was so good being able to have a warm shower and put all our wet gear into a drying room, not to mention to be able to sit back in a comfy chair in front of the heater and watch the tempest outside through the windows while enjoying a hot drink.

The Orchid.

Nearing Lake Mackenzie Lodge.

It was a damp day.

Lake Mackenzie Lodge.

Day 2.  20 kilometres.     36 total kilometres.
With a bit of relief we awoke to clear skies, as today we would be above the tree line almost for the whole day. After breakfast we set off on the big climb for the day up to Ocean Peak Corner, being welcomed on top by a guide proffering a hot chocolate and a sublime view. A view that would last for another few hours as we made our way slowly along the Hollyford Face. We could see all the way down the Hollyford Valley to the Tasman Sea, while across the other side of the valley the snow covered Darren Mountains towered into the blue sky. This was walking on a grand scale, the trail itself was very easy which was just as well as the view meant that we weren't concentrating on the track to much. Even the surrounding ridge held interest with plenty of wild flowers, and small creeks cascading down the face in  the Hollyford Valley.

Lake Mackenzie.

Climbing up to Ocean Peak Corner.

Looking back down towards Lake Mackenzie.

Almost at Ocean Peak Corner.

The view from Ocean Peak Corner.

Plenty of water on the Hollyford Face.

We pulled the pin for lunch at the tiny Harris Saddle Shelter, it looked like a walkers supermarket as the trampers spread all their gear around to dry in the sun while eating lunch. Seeing that all our gear was already dry (did I mention we were on guided hike!), I decided to head up the snow covered Conical Hill while Sam trucked on down to Routeburn Falls Hut for an afternoon of R+R. The climb up Conical Hill obviously hadn't been done since yesterdays snow as I found myself pushing through deeper and deeper snow as I neared the summit. The route however was staked and quite do able and the view from the summit was ample compensation for the extra effort of pushing a track through the snow. From the top of Conic Hill the Tasman Sea appeared very close indeed, this was my first experience of standing in the snow and looking at the sea, something which would become second nature in Antarctica in a couple of years, and of which I also experienced on the GR20 in Corsica more than once last year, but not something you can easily do in Australia (with the possible exception of a few mountains in Tasmania). Returning to Harris Saddle Hut I grabbed my pack and headed off down into the Upper Routeburn Valley, the track cut into solid rock above Lake Harris providing another great alpine experience, after leaving Lake Harris I followed the cascading left fork of the Routeburn down to Routeburn Falls and the lodge named after them. Sam had made herself at home and I soon cracked a beer and sat back with her to admire the view, reflecting on what had been one of the best days of walking in my life.

The Darren Mountains on the other side of the Hollyford Valley.

Easy walking on the Hollyford Face.

The Darren Mountains.

Almost at Harris Saddle Shelter.

The view from Conical Hill of the Tasman Sea.

A frozen tarn on Conical Hill.

Lake Harris, with the Routeburn track etched into the rock on the far right side of the photo.

Above Lake Harris on the Routeburn Track.

Routeburn Falls Lodge with the Routeburn Flats below.

Day 3. 10 kilometres.  46 total kilometres.
Anything was going to be a bit of an anti climax after yesterdays walking, and so it was. The day was still a very good day but after yesterdays retina burning scenery the valley of the Routeburn was always going to struggle. Initially the track dropped steeply down to Routeburn Flats passing through a couple of fairly recent landslips before arriving at the grassy flats near Routeburn Flat Hut. Once down at Routeburn Flats we followed the river for the rest of the morning, stopping every now and again to check out special sections of the river like 'the Sump' where the river disappears under a constriction of boulders.

Routeburn Falls.

Heading down to Routeburn Flats.

Routeburn Flats.

By early afternoon we popped out at Routeburn Shelter, the end of our walk. All that was left now was a short bus ride back to Queenstown, with a stop at the historic Glenorchy Hotel for a celebratory drink on the way. After settling into our hotel in Queenstown that night, we were able to reflect on what had been a great experience over dinner and a few drinks with our fellow trampers and guides.

Passing through another land slip.

The Routeburn.

What could possibly go wrong?

The Dirt.
Like our Milford walk we walked the Routeburn with Ultimate Hikes, they provide a top quality experience which left us nothing to worry about except getting out and walking, I'd rate the Routeburn as a medium walk, there is a little climbing on day 1 and 2 but the views normally compensate (if the weathers good), and the track standard is typical New Zealand Great Walks standard, that is excellent. So which would I prefer Milford or Routeburn? Well I enjoyed the Routeburn slightly more, spending the whole of day two above the tree line was amazing, the views never stopped. We're off to do them again back to back soon so I'll give you an update, but I suspect it'll come down to the weather, good weather on one and bad on the other would easily swing the balance.

Another view from Conical Hill.