Mt Kosciuszko & the Main Range, Kosciuszko National Park - November 2006

Club Lake.

The Snowy River.

How's this for surreal, I'm typing up this post while I'm sitting in my room on the 43rd floor of the Shard in London in a white fluffy robe, gawking out the window at the Tower Bridge and Tower of London, with the Thames flowing by I'm struggling a bit to concentrate my mind on a walk on the Main Range almost ten years ago. This was the first time I'd walked on the Main Range so I wasn't to sure what to expect, I'd once again roped my mate Dave in for this walk, our plan was to spend two nights on the range taking in most of the easier to get to spots.

A few Brumbies on the drive in.

Day 1                          Mt Townsend                     9 kilometres
Yeah you read that right 9 kilometres for the day, I could of made the stats a little more respectable if I'd included the distance we spent sitting on our bums on the Crackenback Chairlift, but in the interests of 'truth in blogging' I couldn't do that. So we'll stay with 9 k's for the day, as I mentioned in the last sentence this walk started on a chairlift which basically took all the hard work out of the day taking us and our packs from around 1400 metres to around 1900 metres, hardcore bushwalking indeed. Things didn't get a lot harder when we started walking as we meandered our way along the extensive raised metal walkway, crossing the odd remaining snow drift on the way.

Looking towards Mt Kosciuszko.

After less then 2 kilometres of actual walking though we headed off the walkway and started off across country towards North Rams Head, the walking was across rolling alpine grassland which made it pretty easy. Stashing our packs we climbed up the jumble of granite boulders that is North Rams Head, the climb being easier than it appeared from the distance. Back with our packs we started off heading north along a broad grassy ridge to intersect with the metal boardwalk at a lookout above Lake Cootapatamba, with Mt Kosciuszko rising up to the north of the lake it's a pretty spot.

Dave, scrambling up North Rams Head.

Lake Cootapatamba.

Mt Kosciuszko was our next objective, so after taking in the view from the lookout we walked the last section of the boardwalk to arrive at Rawson Pass, from the pass we started up the circular summit track, I say circular as it feels as though you are going around the mountain like a cork screw before you arrive at the summit. We had the highest point in Australia to ourselves on this day, probably because we were there in the late afternoon as your very rarely lonely up here. After taking the obligatory summit photos we headed off to find a spot to pitch our tents for the night, from the summit we had our eye on the ridge leading up to Mt Townsend, there seemed to be a few flat spots in a saddle between Muellers Peak and Mt Townsend. Our camp that night provided a grandstand view over Albina Lake in one direction and down the valley of Wilkinsons Creek in the other.

The top of Australia.

Sunset from camp, day 1.

It's gonna be cold tonight I reckon Dave.

It's time for the sleeping bag.

Day 2           Snowy River             22 kilometres           31 kilometres Total
Well yesterday was pretty cruisey but today we cranked it up a bit. First up this morning we headed up to the summit of Mt Townsend, last night had been particularly cold and we found ourselves crunching through a few ice covered puddles on our way to the top. There's a school of thought that Strzelecki mistook Mt Townsend for Mt Kosciuszko when he was the first European to discover the area, his description of a jagged mountain seems to match the rugged Mt Townsend a lot more than the gently rolling slopes of Mt Kosciuszko.

The weather on day 2 was looking good again.

Dave scrambling up Mt Townsend.

Mt Townsend.

Looking back towards the more rounded Mt Kosciuszko from Mt Townsend.

Looking back towards last nights camp from the top of Mt Townsend.

Looking towards the north out over Lady Northcotes Canyon, from Mt Townsend.

Returning to camp we grabbed our packs and headed off along the spine of the Main Range, this is a great section of track as it walks the steep slopes high above Albina Lake towards Northcote Pass and Mt Lee. While it was a sunny day the wind was bitingly cold so we dropped off the ridge above Club Lake to give ourselves a bit of a break from the buffeting we were getting. After thawing out a bit we dropped down off Carruthers Peak to a track junction, leaving Dave to snooze in the sun out of the wind for awhile I grabbed a camera and some water and headed off to Mt Twynam on a side trip. The route out to Mt Twynam follows very old management track, its very faint a grassy in places but still pretty easy to follow, off to my left I could see the rugged ramparts of Watsons Crag, something that I've filed in the deep dark recesses of my mind for a future visit. After getting a photo at the old trig point on top of Mt Twynam I retraced my steps back to catch up with Dave.

It was a little chilly last night.

Lake Albina flows into the rugged Lady Northcotes Canyon.

Club Lake.

The Main Range snaking its way northwards.

Looking back towards Mt Townsend from near Mt Twynam.

The old trig on Mt Twynam.

The next objective for the day was Blue Lake where we enjoyed a late lunch at the lookout. After finishing lunch I once again left Dave basking in the sun while I headed down to the lake shore, Blue Lake is a stunningly beautiful spot, with huge rocky cliffs crowding the lake to the north, the cliffs hold snow late into the year, it's these cliffs that also provide one of the only viable ice climbing venues in Australia over winter. Climbing back up to meet Dave at the lookout we then headed down the paved pathway to our intended camp on the Snowy River just below Charlottes Pass, arriving with a couple hours of daylight left gave us some time to relax in this idyllic location and rest our tired feet.

Blue Lake.

Blue Lake is a stunningly beautiful spot on a nice day.

These cliffs above Blue Lake provide one of the few viable ice climbing spots in Australia over winter.

Our camp on the Snowy River near Charlottes Pass.

Day 3             Thredbo                   13 kilometres               44 kilometres Total
Today was a bit of a road bash, after climbing up to Charlottes Pass we followed the old summit road all the way back to Rawson Pass. If you have to walk on a dirt road though this is the kind that you want to walk on, its long closed to vehicles and slowly and effortlessly gains height through some beautiful alpine scenery. The main interest on the climb was the residual snow drifts at the crossing of the Snowy River, they were a reminder of how bleak and inhospitable this place can be. After crossing the Snowy River on the concrete bridge we headed around the edge of Etheridge Ridge to have our second breakfast at the shelter provided by Seamans Hut.

The Snowy River near the Summit Road crossing.

Etheridge Ridge behind the Snowy River.

Suitably refreshed we headed off on the last stage of our walk, initially we climbed a little more up Summit Road until we arrived at Rawson Pass. From Rawson Pass we once again headed off down the raised metal walkway, this time down towards the Crackenback chairlift. The walkway not only provides for quick walking but it allows you to look up and take in the extensive views as you stride along. After once again crossing over a tributary of the infant Snowy River and passing our last lookout to Mt Kosciuszko, the top station of the Crackenback Chairlift came into view and we were being being whisked down the mountain slopes to the bright lights of Thredbo.

Time for our second breakfast at Seamans Hut.

That's the top station of the Crackenback Chairlift that has just come into view.

The Dirt.
This walk is a little deceptive, in fine weather its an easy stroll along good tracks. If the weather deteriorates the walking can get very serious very quickly though, people have perished up here, some in the not very distant past, so it pays to treat this area with a lot of respect. We used John Chapman's notes from his Bushwalking in Australia and carried the Perisher Valley 1:25,000 topo map. I suppose that I'd rate this a medium walk, although only really because of the possibility of bad weather.

Club Lake from high up on Carruthers Peak.