Goin' Feral One Day At A Time: Melbourne To Carnarvon National Park, Top End Road Trip

This was our first visit to Carnarvon National Park... it wouldn't be the last!

With travelling and walking being pretty well off the agenda for awhile thanks to the Corona Virus I've been spending some quality Iso time scanning some old photos. These old photos tell the grainy story of a trip Sam and I did almost 25 years ago, a trip that covered half of Australia. This trip was (and still is) the longest break that I've had off work since I was 20 years old and travelling around Australia with my mate in an old XB Ford Panelvan. On this trip Sam and I travelled in the relative luxury of our Toyota Troopie, well it was luxurious compared to the old XB anyway!

Back in these ye olde days up at Mungo National Park we were free to wander around the Walls of China at our leisure... I'm thinking things may be different now which is probably a good thing.

Our first point of call after leaving Melbourne was Mungo National Park. Sam and I have been to this wonderful park a few times over the years and always find it a special spot. Mungo National Park is the spot where the aboriginal skeletons of Mungo Man and Mungo Woman were found, human habitation dates back at least 40,000 years here. Apart from the indigenous history Mungo National Park also features a bit of more recent history as well, the park was part of the large Gol Gol Station which ran up to 50,000 head of sheep at it's peak, once people have checked out the indigenous history they should also make time to check out the huge Cypress Pine Shearing Shed which was built in 1869. Back when we visited, things at Mungo were pretty low key. We were pretty well free to wander around where ever we wanted, however I believe things are a little more regimented up there now days...which is probably a good thing really.

The Walls of China at Mungo National Park.

These friendly guys were hanging out at the Belah Camp in Mungo National Park.

Sunset at Mungo National Park.

Mungo National Park. This Top End Trip was done in our old Toyota Troopie.

After a night at Mungo National Park we followed series of red dirt back roads across to Willandra National Park. Willandra National Park is another park that was originally an old pastural station and is now slowly being revegetated. After spending a night here Sam and I pointed the troopie north and headed for the Queensland border. After passing through Wilcannia we followed red dirt roads north through Wanaaring before crossing over into Queensland at Hungerford. A little bit further north and we entered Currawinya National Park which provided a nice camp for the night...and even a nice dam to have a swim in next morning before we set off again.

Heading along the red dirt roads across to Willandra National Park.

Willandra National Park

Our camp at Currawinya National Park.

Currawinya National Park

I was even able to squeeze in a swim before we left.

We were definitely in big Red Kangaroo territory now.

Leaving Currawinya National Park next morning Sam and I continued our journey north, meandering our way through Cunnamulla, Charleville, Roma and then Injune as we made our way to Carnarvon National Park. Even 25 years ago Carnarvon National Park was very much on my radar, I'd been reading tit bits about it in Wild magazine as well as the occasional 4wd magazine (remember this was pre widespread interweb times). This was our first visit to this wonderful national park and it obviously left a good impression on me as I've made the long drive up here a few times since. Now days when people visit Carnarvon National Park they generally have to stay outside the boundaries of the park in one of the commercial set ups, however back in the day there was a big campground where the visitor centre is today (actually the Qld Parks folks may open this camp up over school holidays still...or maybe that's a Feral fact?).

Topping up our water bottles at the Moss Garden at Carnarvon National Park on our overnight Walk up to Big Bend Camp.

Carnarvon Gorge

Even back in these days the track up the gorge was a good one.

Climbing up into the Amphitheatre.

Years after our visit access to the Amphitheatre was closed off for awhile when a flash flood took out the ladder.

After spending a night at the campground Sam and I grabbed our packs and headed into Carnarvon Gorge to spend the night at Big Bend Camp. Back in 1997 the Great Walk was still a long way into the future and while I'd heard murmurings of the Battleship Spur route I didn't know enough about it to attempt it, so Big Bend it was! This is a beautiful walk that I think every Australian should do (just not when I'm on the track;). Carnarvon Creek was crossed around twenty times on stepping stones as we made our way upstream on the good track. After numerous side trips to check out side gorges and indigenous art sites we arrived at Big Bend in the mid afternoon heat, perfect timing for spending the rest of the day relaxing at the waterhole. Sam and I spent a beautiful night on our own out here and then enjoyed and equally nice walk back to the waiting Troopie the next day, before heading off on our next adventure.

I'm thinking that this is climbing up to Ward's Canyon. This is a side trip so I'm not sure exactly why I was carrying my pack up here.

Ward's Canyon

The Art Gallery.

I'm thinking that this is the Art Gallery... although it could be Cathedral Cave.

Carnarvon Gorge.

Approaching Big Bend Camp we passed by a colony of Fruit Bats.

The Dirt.

Back when we did this trip things were pretty rough and ready, the tourist infrastructure certainly wasn't what it is today. Mungo National Park had little in the way of restrictions on where people could walk to help protect the fragile environment. As far as the roads go we were basically on red dirt roads from just after leaving Mildura to we when we met the Bulloo Development Road in southern Queensland. Fuel and water was also an issue that needed a little planning although I was able to carry 280 litres of diesel and 90 litres of water in tanks so it wasn't too bad. It's amazing how much this area of Queensland has changed since this visit, the advent of CSG mining has seen this big changes here (mostly all for the worse unfortunately). We mostly used Hema paper maps on this trip.

Relevant Posts.

Carnarvon Gorge & Battleship Spur Walk, Carnarvon Gorge National Park, 2006.

Carnarvon Great Walk, Carnarvon Gorge National Park, 2014.