Thursday, July 23, 2020

Uluru to Melbourne, Top End Road Trip - November 1997

Leaving Yulara the storms continued to stalk us.


After saying our final goodbyes to Lana and Ollie, Sam and I pointed the Troopie south and started heading for home (and work). We didn't do it the easy way though, where's the fun in that? No, we meandered our way back to Melbourne over the the course of the next few days. Leaving Yulara we initially headed east along the Lasseter Highway until we met the road down to Mulga Park out near Mt Conner. Passing by Mt Conner and then Mulga Park, we turned east again along the sandy red dirt Mulga Park Road and headed out to meet the bitumen at the Stuart Highway just south of Kulgera.  After heading up to Kulgera we picked up the road out to Finke (Apatula) and once again headed east. Apart from the change of scenery compared to our usual route up and down the Start Highway we were heading out here so we could visit the Lambert Centre. The Lambert Centre is a couple of kilometres off the Finke Road and it marks the gravitational centre of Australia with a flag pole.


We had a quick pit stop near Kulgera....

...before heading east again on the Finke Road. 

The Lambert Geographical Centre.


Leaving the Lambert Centre we continued our meandering journey back to Melbourne. Heading east to Finke we then passed through New Crown and Charlotte Waters on the rough as guts gibber plains before crossing the Northern Territory / South Australia border near Mt Dare. After a quick stop at Mt Dare for a drink and a weather report we rattled out way out to Dalhousie Springs in the Witjira National Park to camp for the night. Dalhousie Springs is a fairly popular place however with us being there in summer we had the campground and waterhole to ourselves - well unless you count the  inquisitive Dingo that hung around all night.


Crossing the Northern Territory / South Australia border near Mt Dare...our adventure was nearing its end.

Dalhousie Springs

Dalhousie Springs

We did have some company at Dalhousie.




After a hot and sweaty night listening to the mournful howls of the local Dingos Sam and jumped into the Troopie and continued our journey south. Once again today the weather, while being stinking hot, was very hot - think low 40˚, so sitting in the air-conditioning wasn't a real hardship as we rattled our way down to Oodnadatta. Dropping at the Pink Roadhouse we enjoyed our traditional Oodna Burger before once again continuing our journey down the Oodnadatta Track. With our early lunch barely digested we pulled up at Algebuckina and I took Sam to show her the massive old railway bridge where the old Ghan use to cross the Neales River. Back in those days the sleepers were still on the old bridge and if you had a head for heights it was possible to walk across the whole bridge.



Time for an Oodna Burger.

You don't have to worry about finding a car park out here.

The old Ghan line railway bridge at Algebuckina over the Neales River is a big one.

Back in the day you could walk across here.

The gaps between the sleepers required a little caution though.

Swimming in my waterhole on the Neales River.


Returning to the Troopie my thoughts turned to where I could have a swim. I knew that the Neales River generally has a few deep waterholes in it and after driving along a station track beside the river for a few minutes I found what I was looking for. While the water here is generally a little too salty for drinking it still makes for a refreshing spot for a quick swim, although the muddy exit and entry means that you'll need to rinse of your feet when you get out. Jumping back in the Troopie after our swim we once again headed south, after quick stops at William Creek and Lake Eyre South we made a mile down to the Flinders Rangers, spending the night camped in the stunningly beautiful Brachina Gorge.



William Creek.

Looking out over Lake Eyre South...it's a desolate scene.

Sam and I at Lake Eyre South....it looks like I needed to get home for a haircut!


Our last day of our big Top End Trip was really just a road bash. After packing up camp Sam and I motored through Bunyroo Gorge before hitting the bitumen near Wilpena Pound. From there on we were in very familiar country as we zigged and zagged our way through South Australia and then Victoria, arriving home late in the evening after almost six weeks on the road. As I mentioned in the first post of this long running adventure this was, and still is the longest time I've had off work since I was twenty years old. Hopefully our health will hold out long enough that we will be able to do many more of these types of trips when we can eventually retire.



Bunyroo Gorge


Bunyroo Gorge


Flinders Ranges National Park.


The Dirt.
This drive home from Yulara was fairly straightforward as far as technical driving goes. While there was a lot of dirt roads to negotiate they were all pretty straight forward although once again I'll throw in a couple of caveats. The first thing to be aware of is that while these roads are fairly strait forward in dry conditions if things get wet then they are diabolically difficult. The other thing to be aware of is that travelling in summer as we were isn't ideal, temperatures pushing 50˚ aren't uncommon and any kind of glitch with your vehicle will get serious really quickly - people die out here. We used Hema maps on this trip. 

Relevant Posts.


Flinders Ranges National Park.


Our last day on our trip was another good one.


Flinders Ranges National Park.


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