Refugio Dickson to Campamento Los Perros, The O Circuit, Torres del Paine National Park - November 2012

Petra crossing the Rio Los Perros as we climbed towards Campamento Los Perros.

By the time I was ready to crawl out of the tent this morning last nights snow had largely melted, however I didn't have to look far to see snow as the hills around me had a nice fresh coating, so it promised to be a great days trekking. After a quick breakfast I took a walk down to Lago Dickson. Standing alone on the grey sandy shoreline of Lago Dickson with icebergs floating down the lake and the snow covered mountains all around me tearing at the clouds was an amazing way to start my day. Thankfully today we only had a fairly short day in front of us, so we were able to enjoy a relaxing start to the day.

Lago Dickson

Lago Dickson. The snow level had risen a little overnight.

We'd walked up this valley yesterday.

Lago Dickson

The Rio Paine flowing out of Lago Dickson... I was starting to think that today was going to be a good day!

Glacier Dickson calves icebergs into Lago Dickson.

Looking back up towards Refugio Dickson from Lago Dickson.

We were heading deeper into those mountains today.

I'm guessing that this boat is what the walkers coming in from Lago Azul use to cross the Rio Paine.

Today we followed the Rio Los Perros (River of the Dogs) all the way to Campamento Los Perros. The walking was through Lenga Forest which looked absolutely beautiful with the fresh dusting of snow. Every now and again the track would pass through a bit of an opening in the forest which provided ever more spectacular views of the surrounding mountains. The first good view this morning provided a good look back to the north towards Glacier Dickson, the glacier which was providing the icebergs that were floating in Lago Dickson this morning. A little further on and I got some glimpses towards the back side of  the towering Cordillera Paine. With the occasional glimpses of the rushing Rio Los Perros below us the walking was amazing (yeah, yeah I know amazing is a little heavy on the hyperbole, however today I think it was pretty accurate - and then there was tomorrow....). 

Sandy and Karen enjoying life at Refugio Dickson.

Every morning we'd have a weigh in.

I'm guessing that this is the old Refugio Dickson?

We were mostly in Lenga Forest today.

As we climbed away from Refugio Dickson we got some nice views back down towards Glacier Dickson...

... and Lago Dickson.

There was still a bit of snow about however the track was generally pretty dry today.

The sprinkling of snow definitely added a bit of interest.

All the creeks and rivers were bridged today.

Climbing towards Campamento Los Perros in Torres Del Paine National Park.

Stopping at Salto Los Perros for lunch and I found myself a perch on a rock above the gorge just below the falls. Apart from the water views my waterfront perch got me out of the Lenga Forest and it's voracious Mosquitoes so I could enjoy lunch un-molested by the blood sucking parasites (yes, it seems that the good always comes with a negative). The river is named after a herders dogs that drowned in the river near here and looking at the river from my vantage point I could see how that could easily happen. 

Torres Del Paine

Heading further up the Rio Los Perros we got some great glimpses of the surrounding mountains.

Torres Del Paine National Park.

The tops of the larger mountains were still mostly shrouded in cloud.

These small boggy openings were the best spots to get some longer views.

Looking back down towards Lago Dickson... progress was still being made.

Torres Del Paine National Park.

It's a fairly average photo however we'd be crossing those mountains at the head of the valley tomorrow.

Rio Los Perros

Rita is making her way through the Lenga Forest.

With lunch finished we continued upstream, crossing and re crossing the Rio Los Perros on some beautiful rustic looking bridges as we slowly made our up towards Campamento Los Torres. Eventually we emerged from the forest and started to ascend open country up a large moraine. Cresting the moraine the wind almost knocked us off our feet as it howled down from the snow covered mountains that were now pretty well surrounding us. If the wind didn't knock us over the view almost did, ahead of us was a small terminal lake complete with icebergs that were being fed by Glacier Los Perros that appeared to be descending from the clouds. Not only did we get a great look at Glacier Los Perros from the top of the moraine but it was also here that we got our first glimpse of John Gardner Pass ahead of us. John Gardner Pass would be tomorrows route over the mountains towards Glacier Grey. From down here it looked like the pass certainly had a fair covering of snow so tomorrow promised to be a hard day. Unfortunately the wind made it impossible to stay this scenic spot for long, so we soon made our way down to Campamento Los Perros.

Heading towards Campamento Los Perros in Torres Del Paine National Park.

Rio Los Perros

Salto Los Perros

I'm looking pretty content with life.

Rio Los Perros

Campamento Los Perros was named Camp Dysentery by some in our group (hi Petra)and it was indeed  a very spartan camp. There was a small refuge here that consisted of a tree with a tarp spread around the trunk and came complete with a few rough benches and an open fire.  The camping area at Campamento Los Perros was very rocky and also had roots from the Lenga Trees snaking along the ground. My tent also had its own water feature running under the vestibule and then under the tent and the scene was set off by the left over snow from last night lining the edges of the tent. All that said though the camp was there to serve a purpose, and that was to give us enough time to get over the John Gardner Pass tomorrow and onto Refugio Grey.

Lenga Forest, Torres Del Paine National Park.

Glacier Los Perros 

Rio Los Perros

Rio Los Perros

Glacier Los Perros is looming large now.

Glacier Los Perros calves into this terminal lake near Campamento Los Perros.

With all the refuges that we'd camped at so far on the walk selling Cerveza I'd been doing a fair bit of drinking on this walk, although today Fred (my main partner in crime on this walk) and I had designated it an alcohol free day although that was more because we couldn't be bothered lugging it up here as this would be the only refuge without a shop. However looking around the refuge it appeared that the rest of the party had lugged an ample supply of cask wine up from Refugio Dickson, and they now set about fortifying themselves for the big day ahead. Not being much of a wine drinker Fred and I decided to climb the old moraine next to the camp to get another look at Laguna Los Perros, it was a beautiful spot with the usual icebergs floating in the lake although unfortunately we couldn't see the glacier from where we ascended. After braving the bitter wind for as long as possible we were treated to the dubious comforts of Camp Dysentery for dinner and an early night... tomorrow promised to be a big day...

Looking up towards John Gardner Pass (centre left). Yes, tomorrows walk was looking a little daunting!

Campamento Los Perros (aka, Camp Dysentery!). 

My flash digs at Campamento Los Perros. I even had my own water feature... that ran beneath the floor of the tent!

The refuge at Campamento Los Perros was fairly basic.

The chimney in the refuge was fairly unique.

The pre dinner drinks session was in full swing.

Nico's got dinner well under control.

 

The Dirt.

I walked 12 kilometres today and climbed around 500 metres on what I'd call a medium grade days walking. Over the 3 days of my Torres Del Paine walk so far I've walked 39.5 kilometres and climbed 1500 metres. Once again today's walking was all on walking track although unlike yesterdays walk to Refugio Dickson todays track was fairly dry underfoot and all the major creeks and rivers were bridged. The rough refuge at Campamento Los Perros was a very basic shelter although the camping area did have a flushing toilet (which wasn't flushing) and a cold shower. I used the notes and basic map out of Cicerones Torres Del Paine - Trekking In Chile's Premier National Park.

Relevant Posts.

Day 2 of this walk, 2012.

Before dinner Fred and I climbed back up onto the moraine behind camp to get another look at the small lake below Glacier Los Perros.

Paine Grande from near Campamento Los Perros.

By tent o'clock it looked like conditions were starting to improve a little.